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The Imperial and Royal Cook, 1809 A Foods of England online text. For more see Cookbooks TITLE: The imperial and royal cook: consisting of the most sumptuous made dishes, ragouts, fricassees, soups, gravies, &c.; Foreign and English: including the latest improvements in fashionable life AUTHOR: Frederic Nutt PUBLISHER: Leigh, Strand, London DATE: 1809 THIS VERSION: Based on the one online at archive.org, digitized by the Internet Archive from a book in the collection of Leeds University. This is an Optical Character Recognition scan, it has been partly edited, but still contains very significant errors. THE IMPERIAL AND ROYAL COOK: CONSISTING OF THE MOST SUMPTUOUS MADE DISHES, RAGOUTS, FRICASSEES, SOUPS, GRAVIES, &C.; Foreign and English: INCLUDING THE LATEST IMPROVEMENTS IN FASHIONABLE LIFE. SECOND EDITION. BY FREDERIC NUTT, AUTHOR OF THE COMPLETE CONFECTIONER. LONDON: PRINTED FOR SAMUEL LEIGH, STRAND; AND BALDWIN, CRADOCK, AND JOY, PATERNOSTER ROW. 1819 . S.1V101 A D VE R ‘RISE MEN T. f J.HE reader may probably ask, What necessity is there for another Cookery Book, after the immense number which have already appeared, many of them with the names of those who are considered as proficients in the art? My answer is, that notwithstanding the number of publications on this subject, there is still room for another; because most of those alluded to so much resemble each other, that no material difference can be discovered in their general plan or execution. The general fault of cookery books is, that they are loaded with unnecessary, and indeed trifling, receipts, which every one, who has the slightest knowledge of cookery, must be thoroughly acquainted with. VI ADVERTISEMENT. In the work now presented to public inspection, I do not profess to give any hackneyed receipts for boiling or roasting, broiling or baking, but have confined my selection chiefly to the ‘higher departments of the art, such as made dishes, ragouts, fricassees, soups, gravies, &c.; I have aimed, in general, to give the most esteemed Foreign and English dishes that are now in use. An idea generally prevails, that those who have lived at an hotel, tavern, or coffee-house, must of course be thoroughly perfected in the art of cookery. 1 his is by no means the case: there are dishes made in noblemen’s houses, both in town and country, which a cook of the description I have mentioned knows very little about; it is only in the first families of rank and fashion that these things are to be found. The time which is allotted to a tavern cook in the ordinary course of his business, will not be sufficient to enable him to accomplish such designs, even if he were capable of it. Another ADVERTISEMENT. Vll reason, is the enormous expense which must attend the system of cookery of which I now speak. It will be perfectly understood, that I do not consider this as an introductory work: such publications are already so numerous, that there is no necessity to enlarge the number. It will be said, this book is not adapted for families in general; the receipts arc too expensive. This is admitted: but are there not thousands of Opulent Families both in town and country, who wish to give handsome occasional entertainments to their select friends; and who, on such occasions, are not so scrupulous of the expense f To such, I flatter myself, the present undertaking will be of great service. As to the common hints for marketing, carving, bills of fare, &c.; what I have already said will sufficiently account for the omission. As to confectionary in general, I refer the reader to the last edition of my “ Complete Confectioner,” the rapid sale of which has exccded my most sanguine expectations. Vlll ADVERTISEMENT. To that indulgent public which has so favourably encouraged “ The Complete Confectioner,” I now submit an improved edition of “ The Royal and Imperial Cook.” F. N. CONTENTS. SOUPS. General Remarks on Soups . . . . Soup a la Reine Vermicelli Soup, white or brown Sauce for Bouilli Giblet Soup a la Tortue Mock Turtle Soup a la Flamond To dress a Turtle the West India way . . . . Rice Soup with a Chicken Hare Soup ‘. Soup a l’Ecrevisse Asparagus Soup, clear Soup and Bouilli Ox Cheek Soup e Soup Loraine Soup Maigre General Stock for all kinds of Soups … . . Coulis Sauce Tourney and Beshemell CONTENTS. Page White Braise 23 Brown Braise 23 Dry Braise 24 Soup Sante 25 Jelly Stock 25 General Meagre Stock for Soups, Sauce, &c.; 26 Hot Force-meat, commonly called Farce . . 26 Cokl Force-meat for Balls, &c; 27 Egg Balls for Turtle, Mock Turtle, &c.; . . 28 Piquant Sauce 29 Pouverade Sauce 29 Carrot Sauce 30 Sauce Hashis 30 Alemand Sauce 30 Italian Sauce brown 31 Sorrel Sauce 31 Chervil Sauce 32 Shalot Sauce 32 Royal Sauce, white or brown 33 Flemish Sauce 33 Ravigot Sauce 33 Spanish Sauce 34. Sauce a la Reine 35 Cucumber Sauce 35 Dutch Sauce 36 Mushrooms for first or second Course …. 36 Truffles to keep a Year or more, 37 CONTENTS.. XI BEEF MADE DISHES. Page Ox Rumps 39 Beef Palates rolled 39 Brisket of Beef stewed 40 Fillet of Beef larded 41 Peths au Gratin 42 Rump of Beef a la Mantua 42 Collard Beef 43 Boeuf de Chasse 44 Hodge Podge 45 Beef Olives with Sauce Restauret 46 Beef Palates . . 47 Tripe. 48 Stewed Beef 48 Round of Beef forced 49 Beef a la Mode 50 Tongue and Udder forced 51 A Fricandeau of Beef 52 Portugal Beef 52 Beef a la Vingrette 53 Beef Steaks rolled 53 Rump of Beef a la Daube and Cabbage . . 54 Xll CONTENTS. MUTTON MADE DISHES. Souties of Mutton and Cucumber Sheep’s Rumps with Kidneys Sheep’s Trotters in Gratin Leg of Mutton roasted with Oysters Shoulder of Mutton, called Hen and Chickens Oxford John Mutton Rumps braised Haricot of Mutton China Chilo Page 55 55 56 56 57 57 58 59 60 LAMB MADE DISHES. Loin of Lamb braised, and Celery Sauce . . 60 Shoulder of Lamb larded 61 Two Necks of Lamb, Chevaux de Frise . . 61 Lambs’ Feet with Asparagus Peas 62 Lamb Cutlets larded, Breast rolled, and French Beans 63 Tureen of Lambs’ Tails 64 Quarter of Lamb forced 65 Leg of Lamb and Haricot Beans 66 Chine of Lamb and Cucumber Sauce …. 67 CONTENTS xm VEAL MADE DISHES. Page Veal Olives 67 Breast of Veal ragouted whole 68 Tenderones of Veal 69 A Loin of Veal a la Beshemell 70 A Roulard of Veal and Mushrooms 71 White Collops and Cucumbers 72 A Fillet of Veal a la Flamond 73 Breast of Veal a la Flamond 73 A Neck of Veal braised, and Sauce a la Reine 74 A Souties of Sweetbreads and Piquant Sauce 74 Calves’ Ears forced 75 Breast of Veal with Truffles a ITtalienne . . 76 Three Sweetbreads and an Emince 76 and Asparagus Peas . . 77 Breast of Veal a ITtalienne 78 Shoulder of Veal a la Piedmontaise 78 Sweetbreads of Veal a la Dauphine 79 German way of dressing a Calf’s Head . . 80 Calf’s Pluck 81 Pillow of Veal 82 Scotch or scorched Collops 83 Tureen of Calves’ Feet and Asparagus Peas 84 XIV CONTENTS. PORK MADE DISHES. Page A Fillet of Pork 85 A Ham braised 85 A Leg of Pork a la Boisseau 86 A Pig au Pere Duillet 87 Sicilian manner of dressing Loin of Pork to eat like wild Boar 88 Barbecued Pig 89 MADE DISHES OF FOIVL. A Fowl a la Daube 90 Ragout Melle 90 Two Ducks a la Daube 91 Boiled Chickens and Tarragon Sauce …. 92 Chickens and Celery Sauce 92 A Currie of Rabbits 93 A Currie another way 93 A Fricassee of Chickens 94 Fat Livers in Cases 95 A Civet of Hare 9g Two Ducks braised with Turnips 96 A Fricandeau of Fowl and Endive 97 CONTENTS. XV Page A Salmie of wild Ducks 98 A Blanquct of Poularde with Mushrooms 99 A Souties of Pheasants and Truffles 100 Two Woodcocks a la Tartar 101 Salmie of Woodcocks 102 Pigeons a la Crapaudine and Piquant Sauce 103 Compote of Pigeons with Truffles 101 Fowl a la Daubc, ornamented and garnished with Aspic 105 Capiloted Fowl 107 Fillets of Hare larded, and a Puree of Plarc under them 108 Pigeons braised and Asparagus Peas 108 Quenels of Fowl 109 Four Pigeons larded, and a Ragout of Cocks’ Combs 110 Grouse braised, and Cabbage Ill Daubed Fowls 112 A Jugged Hare 114 Partridges and Pheasants preserved for En tres, Pies, See 115 Potted Flare . 118 Chicken Panado 119 Mutton Panado 120 Snipes or Woodcocks in surtout 121 Ducks a la Francoise 122 Chickens in savory Jelly 122 XVI CONTENTS. Page Florendine Hare 123 Chicken Chiringrate 125 A Goose Marinade 126 Marinaded Fowl 127 Macedonian Ducks 127 To dress a wild Duck 128 To ragout a Goose 129 To stew Giblets 130 Pigeons in savoury Jelly 130 Pigeons a la Daube 131 Pigeons a la Royale 132 Pigeons a la Plumpton 132 Turkey a la Daube 133 Larks a la Francoise 134 Snipes with Purslain Leaves 134 Rabbits surprised 135 Rabbits en Gallentine 136 Rabbits en Matelot 136 FISH MADE DISHES. Saumon a la braze 137 Salmon with sweet Herbs 138 Soles a la Francoise 139 Fillets of Salmon, with Capers 140 6 CONTENTS. XV 11 Page Fillet of Sole a l’ltalienne 140 Souties of Sole, with Sauce a la Heine …. 141 Souties of Fish 142 Semels of Turtle 142 A Souties of Liver of Turtle 143 Matelot of Tench 144 Fillets of Whiting 144 A dressed Crab, hot or cold 145 Dressed Lobster, hot or cold 145 A Volevent of Eels . 146 Fillet of Sturgeon, and Sauce Royal 147 Morue a la Creme 148′ Atlets of Oysters 149 Fish Pie, with Tench and Eels, and hard Eggs 149 Oysters fried in Batter 150 Volevent of Oysters 151 Rimaulade of Smelts 152 Matelot of Carp 153 Matelot of Carp and Eel 154 A Pike or Jack baked 155 A Souties of Salmon with Capers 156 Pickled Salmon 157 Crayfish in Aspic 1.57 Souties of Carp 158 Eels Spitch cock 159 Carp baked 160 XV111 CONTENTS. Page Salmon 161 Turbot 162 Haddock and Whitings 163 Turtle 1 6i SWEETS. Chantilla Cake 170 Spanish Fritters 170 A Souffle of Ginger 171 A Ratifie Pudding 173 Rice Souffle 174 Darioles X 75 Clear Jelly, ornamented or plain 176 Raspberry Cream 177 Cederata Cream 17s Coffee Cream in Cups 178 Tartlets 19 Gateau Millefleur 179 Rhenish Cream X8o Compote of Pears 180 ATrifle 180 Blanc Mange 182 Apple and Barberry Tart 183 CONTENTS. XIX Page Iceing for Rich Cakes, 183 Sponge Biscuits for Cakes 181 Mushroom Fritters 185 Pen d’ Amours 186 Orange Cream 186 China Orange Jelly 187 Orange Soufllc 188 Gum Paste for Ornaments 188 A Tapioca Pudding 189 Plum Pudding 189 Meringues 190 Small Curd and Almond Pudding baked . . 191 Savoy Cake 192 Custard Pudding 194 Chesnut Pudding 194 Citron Pudding 195 A George Pudding 196 Gooseberry Pudding 196 A Grateful Pudding 197 Lady Sunderland’s Pudding 197 Italian Pudding 198 Marrow Pudding 198 Quince Pudding 199 Sago Pudding 199 XX CONTENTS. TARTS. Page Cherry 200 Tart de Moi v . . . 201 Angelica Tarts 201 Chocolate Tart 202 Orange Tart 202 Raspberry Tarts and Cream 203 Rhubarb Tart 203 Sweet Pates 204 Pates like Mince Pies 204 Veal Pates 204 PUFFS. Almond 205 Chocolate 205 Curd 206 Lemon 206 Orange 207 Sugar 207 CONTENTS. XXI PANCAKES. Page Pancakes 208 Cream Pancakes 208 Rice Pancakes 209 Pink Coloured Pancakes 209 FRITTERS. Custard 210 White Fritters 210 Hasty 211 Royal 211 PIES AND PASTRY. Pigeon Pie in a Dish 212 Pate a la Francoise 213 Amiens Pie 213 Goose and Turkey Pie 214 Christmas Pie 220 xxn CONTENTS Page Partridge Pie… 220 Puff-Paste 222 Ditto, another way 223 Tart Paste 224 Paste, hot, for raised Pies 225 Almond Paste 225 Woodcock Pie, cold 226 Mince Pies 227 Small Mutton Pies 229 W oodcock Pie 229 Mutton and Potatoe Pie in a raised Crust 230 Pate Goodeveau 231 Risoles 232 Timball of Maccaroni and Chicken 233 Raised Pie, with a Neat’s Tongue 233 Truffle Pie, hot 234 Raised Pigeon Pie 235 Lamb Pie, in a Dish 236 Venison Pasty 236 Potted 237 Fine Pates 238 Puffs, with Chicken 239 Rich Veal Pie 240 Veal or Lamb Pie a haut gout 240 Calves’s Feet Pie 241 Sweetbread Pie 242 7 CONTENTS. Xxiii VEGETABLES, %c. Page Stewecl Mushrooms 213 Chartreuse 21-3 Mushrooms either for first or second Course 241 Turtle Herbs in Glaze 215 Portable Sante Plevbs, to take to Sea or for Summer use 217 French Beans preserved 219 VENISON MADE DISHES. Haunch of Doe Venison 250 Neck of Venison stewed 252 Umbles of Deer 252 EGG MADE DISHES. An Omelet 253 —; a la Bourgeoise 251 Eggs fried in Paste 255 with Onions and Mushrooms 255 XXIV CONTENTS. MISCELLANOUS DISHES. ‘ Page Essence of Ham 256 Portable Soup 257 Glaze for Larding, &c; 259 Turtle Herbs, dried 259 Browning for all Sauces and Gravies …. 260 Fondues 261 Sour Crout 262 Sausages 263 Sorrel for Winter use 264 • A Galentine 264 Aspic of Brawn 265 Crayfish Pudding 266 A Grenade 267 TIIE IMPERIAL AND ROYAL COOK, &c.; SOUPS. IN making any kind of soups, particularly vermicelli, portable, brown gravy soup, or any other in which herbs are used, remember to lay the meat in the bottom of your pan, with a large lump of butter. Having cut the roots and herbs small, stew them over the meat, and set the pan on a very slow fire. This will draw all the virtue out of the different ingredients, will produce a good gravy, and a very different effect, in point of flavour, than if at first you had put in w ater. Fill your pan with w r ater as soon as the gravy is almost dried up. Take off the fat as soon as it begins to boil, and then follow the directions for making the sort of soup you wish to have. B 2 THE IMPERIAL AND Green peas, intended for soup, require hard water; but soft water is preferable for old pea soup. In making white soup, let it be taken off the fire before you put in the cream.’ As soups are soon cold, always dish them up the last thing. Take care all the greens and herbs you use in soups are well washed and clean picked, and that no one thing has a predominant taste over another, but that it has a fine agreeable relish, and that all the tastes be united. . ’ SOUP A LA REINE. Cut a few slices of lean ham, and cover the bottom of a Stew-pan, that will hold four quarts; cut up two fowls, and put them in the stewpan, with a few slices of veal, some parsley, six onions, a few blades of mace, and about half a pint of water; put it on a slow stove for an hour, to draw down; (take care that it does not catch at the bottom:) when drawn down, fill up the stewpan with some of your best stock, and let it boil gently for one hour; take ROYAL COOK 3 out the fowls, and pull the meat from the bones; put it into a mortar, with two ounces of sweet almonds; let it be pounded very fine, so that it will go through a tammy: when beat enough, put it into a small soup-pot that will hold about three quarts; put nearly two quarts of the stock which the fowls were boiled in, with the crumb of three French rolls; let it boil for one hour, then rub it through a tammy, and add about a pint of good cream that has been boiled; put it in the soup-pot, and put the pot into a stewpan of hot water, and set it by the side of a stove to boil. Before you put it into the tureen, taste it, as perhaps it may want a little salt, or a small bit of sugar: cut the crust of the rolls, which you took the crumb from, into round pieces, about the size of a shilling, and put them into the tureen before the soup is put in. N. B. All white soups should be wanned by putting the soup-pot into hot water. 4 THE IMPERIAL AND VERMICELLI SOUP, WHITE OR BROWN. Blanch as much vermicelli as is wanted, by putting it on the fire in cold water; let it boil up, then strain it off, and put it into cold water; let the vermicelli stay in the water until it is cold, (if it is left on a sieve to drain while hot, it becomes lumpy, and will not dissolve again,) strain it quite dry from the cold water, put as much best stock as you want soup. If it is for white, make a liaison of six eggs. TO MAKE SAUCE FOR BOUILLI. Chop a boiled carrot, some parsley, two or three pickled cucumbers, and a few pickled mushrooms: put this into a saucepan, with a pint of good stock, aiid a spoonful of good mushroom catchup; season it with pepper and salt, and a little Cayenne; put the bouilli on a dish, pour sauce on it, and send it to table. IIOVAL COOK. 5 SOUP CRESSEY. % Grate four carrots, a few sliced onions, and cut lettuce; put them all into a stewpan, with a bit of butter; put a pint of lentils on the top of the roots, and add a pint of good stock; let it simmer for half an hour, then fill it up with the stock; let it boil gently for an hour, then put in the crumb of two French rolls; when well soaked, rub it all through a tammy; have a little rice boiled in stock to put in the tureen. GIBLET SOUP A LA TORTUE. Scald four sets of giblets, bone the pinions, feet, and heads, cut the necks into pieces about one inch long, cut the gizzard into about eight pieces, (the livers leave out, as they make a good dish for the second course;) put them on to blanch, take them off when they have had one boil, throw them into cold water, and wash them as clean as possible; put them into a small soup-pot, with about two quarts of best stock; put them on a stove, let them 0 THE IMPERIAL AND boil gently till tender, put about a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, with chopped shalots, knotted and sweet marjoram, a little basil, about a quarter of a pound of lean ham, cut very fine, and tivo onions chopped, a handful of parsley chopped, and squeezed dry, and about half a pint of stock; put it on a slow stove for an hour, then put as much flour as will dry up the butter, and add the stock which the giblets were boiled in, and a pint of Maderia; let it boil a few minutes, then rub it through a tammy, and put it to the giblets; squeeze a Seville orange, and add a little sugar, and a small quantity of Cayenne pepper. MOCK TURTLE. Scald a calf’s head with the skin on, saw it in two, take out the brains, tie the head up in a cloth, and let it boil for one hour; then take the meat from the bones, cut it into small square pieces, and throw them into cold water, to wash them ROYAL COOK. 7 clean; then put the meat into a stewpan, with as much good stock as will cover the meat; let it boil gently for an hour, or until quite tender; then take it oil’ the fire, put about half a pound of butter into a stewpan, and half a pound of lean ham, cut very fine, some chopped parsley, sweet marjoram, knotted ditto, basil, three onions, chopped mushrooms, and shalots; put a pint of stock to the herbs and butter, put them on a slow stove, and let them simmer for two hours; put as much flour as will dry up the butter; add stock accordingly, so as to make two tureens; also add a bottle of Madeira; let it boil a few minutes, rub it through a tammy, and put it to the calf’s head; put force-meat balls and egg balls; season it with Cayenne pepper, and a little salt, if wanted; squeeze two Seville oranges and one lemon, a little fine spice, and sugar to make it palatable. Both shalots and thyme must be used with caution; a very small quantity of either is sufficient for any dish: indeed some Cooks leave them out entirely 8 THE IMPERIAL AND SOUP A LA FLAMOND. Shred turnips, carrots, celery, green onions or Spanish, very fine; add lettuce, chervil, asparagus, and peas; put them all into a stewpan, with about two ounces of butter, and a few spoonfuls of stock; put them on a slow stove to sweat down for an hour; make a liaison with the yolks of six eggs, (for two quarts of soup;) beat the yolks very well in a bason, put a pint- of cream (that has boiled) by little at a time, strain it through a hair sieve, then add a large spoonful of beshemell; take the soup off the fire, put the liaison to it, and keep stirring the soup; then put it on a fire till it comes to a boil; stir it all the time it is on the fire, otherwise the eggs will curdle; season it with a little salt, if wanted, and put a small lump of sugar. TO DRESS A TURTLE THE WEST INDIA WAY. Hating taken the turtle out of the water the night before you dress it, lay it ROYAL COOK 9 on its back: in the morning, cut its head off, and hang it up hy its hind fins to bleed till the blood is all out; then cut the call a pee, which is the belly, round, and raise it up; cut as much meat to it as you can; throw it into spring water, with a little salt; cut the fins off, and scald them with the head; take off all the scales; cut out all the white meat, and throw it into spring water and salt: the guts and lungs must be cut out: wash the lungs very clean from the blood; then take the guts and O maw, and slit them open; wash them very clean, and put them on to boil, in a large pot of water, till they become tender; then take off the inside skin, and cut them in pieces of one inch long. In the meantime make some good veal broth: take one large or two small knuckles of veal, and put them on in three gallons of water; let it boil, skim it well, season with turnips, carrots, and celery, a good large bundle of sweet herbs, onions chopped fine, half an ounce of cloves and mace, and half a nutmeg beat very fine: stew it very gently till tender, then take out the fins, put in a pint B 5 10 THE IMPERIAL AND of Madeira wine, and stew it a quarter of an hour: beat up the whites of six eggs with the juice of two lemons, put the liquor in, and boil it up; run it through a flannel bag; make it very hot; wash the fins very clean, and put them in; put a piece of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, put your white meat in, and sweat it gently till it is almost tender; take out the lungs, strain off the liquor, thicken it, put in a bottle of Madeira wine, and season with Cayenne pepper and salt pretty high; put in the lungs and white meat, and stew them up gently for fifteen minutes. Have some force-meat balls made out of the white part, instead of veal, as for Scotch collops. If any eggs, scald them; if not, take twelve hard yolks of eggs made into egg balls. Having your callapash, or deep shell, done round the edge with paste, season it in the inside with pepper and salt, and a little Madeira wine: bake it half an hour, then put in the lungs and white meat, forcemeat, and eggs over, and bake it half an hour; take the bones, and three quarts of veal broth, season it with an onion, a ROYAL COOK. 11 bundle of sweet herbs, and two blades of mace; stew it an hour, strain it through a sieve, thicken it with butter and flour, put in half a pint of Madeira wine, stew it half an hour, and season with Cayenne and salt to your taste. This is the soup. — Take the callapee; run your knife between the meat and shell, and fill it with force-meat; season it all over with sweet herbs chopped fine, a shalot chopped, Cayenne pepper, salt, and a little Madeira wine; put a paste round the edge, and bake it an hour and a half; take the guts and maw, put them into a stewpan, with a little broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, and two blades of mace finely beaten; thicken with a little butter rolled in flour, stew them gently half an hour, and season with Cayenne pepper and salt: beat up the yolks of tw o eggs in half a pint of cream, put it in, and keep stirring one way till it boils up; then dish them up, and put the callapee soup, and callapash, in the centre; the fricasee on one side, and the fins on the other. The fins eat fine when cold, put by in liquor. 12 THE IMPERIAL AND RICE SOUP WITH A CHICKEN. Blanch about half a pound of rice, and put it into a stewpan, with one or two chickens, and a quart of stock; set it on the stove to boil very slowly, until the chickens are very tender, and the rice the same; then put as much stock as will fill the tureen; skim the fat very clean from the soup. HARE SOUP. Cut a large hare into pieces, and put it into an earthen mug, with three blades of mace, two large onions, a little salt, half a dozen large morels, a pint of red wine, and three quarts of water; bake it three hours in a quick oven, and then strain the liquor into a stewpan: have ready boiled, four ounces of fresh barley, and put it in; just scald the liver, and rub it through a sieve with a wooden spoon; put it into the soup, and set it over the fire, but do not let it boil; keep stirring till it is on the brink of boiling, and then take it off; put some ROYAL COOK 13 crisped bread into your tureen, and pour the soup into it. — This is a most delicious soup, and calculated for large entertainments. If any other kind of soup is provided, this should be placed at the bottom of the table. SOUP A L’ECREVISSE. Boil an hundred fresh crayfish, also a fine lobster, and pick the meat clean out of each; pound the shells of both in a mortar till they are very fine, and boil them in four quarts of stock, with four pounds of mutton, a pint of green split peas nicely picked and washed, a large turnip, a carrot, an onion, mace, cloves, and anchovy, a little pepper and salt; stew them on a slow fire till all the goodness is out of the mutton and shells; then strain it through a sieve, and put in the meat of your crayfish and lobster, but let them be cut into very small pieces, with the red coral of the lobster, if it has any: boil it half an hour; and, just before you serve it up, add a little butter melted thick and smooth; stir it G 14 THE IMPERIAL AND round when you put it in, and let it simmer very gently for about ten minutes: fry a French roll nice and brown, lay it in the middle of the dish, pour the soup on it, and serve it up hot. ASPARAGUS SOUP CLEAR. Boil a quart of asparagus peas till tender, then put three pints of good stock; give it a boil, and put a small lump of sugar in. N. B. If for white, make a liaison of four eggs and about a pint of beshemell. SOUP AND BOUILLI. Take about five pounds of briskets of beef, roll it up as tight as you can, and fasten it with a piece of tape; put it into a stewpan, with four pounds of the leg-ofmutton-piece of beef, and about two gallons of water: when it boils, take off the scum quite clean, and put in it one large onion, two or three carrots, two turnips, a leek, two heads of celery, six or ‘seven cloves, ROYAL COOK. 15 and some whole pepper; stew the whole very gently, close covered, for six or seven hours: about an hour before dinner, strain the soup quite clean from the meat: have ready boiled carrots cut into small pieces with a carrot cutter, turnips cut into balls, spinage, a little chervil and sorrel, two heads of endive, and one or two of celery cut into pieces; put them into a tureen with a French roll, dried, after the crumb is taken out; pour the soup to these boiling hot, and add a little salt and Cayenne pepper: take the tape from the beef, or bouilli, and place it into a dish by itself, with mashed turnips, and sliced carrots, each in a separate small dish; and in this manner serve up the whole. OX CHEEK SOUP. Break the bones of the cheek, and, after having washed it thoroughly clean, put it into a large stewpan, with about two ounces of butter at the bottom, and lay the fleshy side downwards; add to it about half a ound of clear ham, cut in 16 THE IMPERIAL AND slices; put in four heads of celery cut small, three large onions, two carrots, one parsnip sliced, and three blades of mace: set it over a moderate fire for about a quarter of an hour, when the virtues of the roots will be extracted; after which, put to it four quarts of water, and let it simmer gently till it is reduced to two. If you mean to use it as soup only, strain it clear off’, and put in the white part of a head of celery cut into small pieces, with a little browning to make it a fine colour. Scald two ounces of vermicelli, and put into the soup; then let it boil for about ten minutes, and pour it into your tureen with the crust of a French roll, and serve it up. If it is to be used as a stew, take up the cheek as whole as possible, and have ready a boiled turnip and carrot cut into square pieces, a slice of bread toasted, and cut in small slices; put in a little Cayenne pepper, strain the soup through a hair sieve upon the whole, and carry it to table. t ROYAI, COOK, 17 SOUP LORAINE. Take a pound of almonds, blanch them, and beat them fine in a mortar, with a very little water, to keep them from oiling 1; then take all the white part of a large roasted fowl, with the yolks of four poached eggs, and pound all together as fine as possible: take three quarts of strong veal broth, let it be very white, and all the fat clean skimmed off. Pour it into a stewpan. SOUP MAIGRE. Put half a pound of butter into a deep stewpan, shake it about, and let it stand till it lias done making a noise; then throw in six middle sized onions, peeled and cut small, and shake them about: take a bunch of celery, clean washed and picked, cut into pieces about half an inch in length; a large handful of spinage, clean washed and picked; a good lettuce (if it can be got), cut small, and a bundle of parsley, chopped fine: shake all these well in the pan for a quarter of an hour, and 18 THE IMPERIAL AND then strew in a little flour: stir all together in the stewpan, and put in two quarts of water: throw in a handful of nice dry crust, with about a quarter of an ounce of ground pepper, and three blades of mace beat fine: stir all together, and let it boil gently for about half an hour; then take it off; beat up the yolks of two eggs, and stir them in with a spoonful of vinegar. Pour the whole into a soup dish, and send it to table. If the season of the year will admit, a pint of peas boiled in the soup will make a material difference. A GENERAL STOCK FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUPS. Cover the bottom of your pot with lean ham; cut it in thin broad slices: the quantity of ham depends upon the size of the pot; it is better to put too much than too little: be very careful to cut all the rusty fat from the lean; then cut up what veal you think requisite, (as the quantity must depend upon your judgment,) and ROYAL COOK. 19 put it in the stock-pot, with the trimmings of any other meat you may have by you; throw in all your trimmings of poultry, such as necks, gizzards, feet, &c.; a few onions, a little thyme and parsley, six heads of celery, a few blades of mace, two or three carrots, and a turnip or two in winter, (but not any in the summer, as they are sure to make it foment;) put about a pint of water in the pot, and set it on a stove not very hot; draw it down; be careful not let it catch at the bottom, as your stock should be light coloured: when drawn down, fill it up with beef broth; be careful in skimming it, and do not let it boil over; but as soon as you see it coming to boil, take it off, and put it at the side; let it boil very slow, for tw o reasons: one is, to keep it clear; and the other, that it should not reduce too much. When it has boiled four hours, strain it off, and fill up the pot again with w r ater; let it boil all the evening, and strain it off the last thing. This is called second stock: it serves for gravy, for the larding and daubed dishes, &c.; 20 THE IMPERIAL AND COULIS. Cut of veal and ham, each an equal quantity, and two old fowls, (according’ to the quantity of coulis you intend to make;) put it into a stewpan, with a few shalots, a faggot of parsley, and sweet marjoram, a few bay leaves, a few blades of mace, and some mushrooms: lay the bottom of the stewpan with sheets of fat bacon, if very good; otherwise, fat of ham; indeed the latter is always preferable, when it can be had: set it on a stove, with about half a pint of stock, and let it draw down gently, until it comes to a glaze at the bottom of the stewpan, which you may easily know by the smell: when down, put about half a pint more of stock: when that is’tlown, fill up your stewpan with the best stock, and let it boil about an hour; strain it off; (boil the meat again, in some of the second stock, and it will make it equal to the first, for several uses;) then take the stewpan, and put some butter in it, (at the rate of two ounces to a quart of coulis;) let it melt; then put as much flour as will dry ItOYAL COOK. 21 it up; keep stirring it over a stove with a wooden spoon, (a copper spoon will take the tin oft’ the stewpan;) then add the coulis stock, by a little at a time, to bring it to a proper thickness; let it boil a few minutes, then strain it through a tammy into a bason: when strained, put the spoon in the sauce, and stir it several times, to keep it smooth. N. B. In winter, or cold weather, it will keep good for a week: in hot weather, it will not be good more than three or four days. SAUCE TOURNEY AND BESHEMELL. Lay the bottom of a stewpan with ham, cut up two old fowls, and put them to the ham; put as much veal as you think proper for the quantity you intend making, with a few onions, a little thyme and parsley, a few blades of mace, and about half a pint of white stock, to draw it down; be sure not to let it catch the bottom of the stewpan: when drawn down, fill it up with first stock, and let it boil an 22 THE IMPERIAL AND hour or better; then strain it off, and fill up your stewpan with water, and it will make good broth for many uses; then put some butter into a stewpan, (about the same quantity as for the coulis;) add a few mushrooms, shalots, a few slices of ham cut in small dice, and about a spoonful of stock, that you have just strained off; let it boil a few minutes; set it on a stove for about half an hour, so as to get all the goodness from the ham; put flour sufficient to thicken it; then add the stock that you have just strained off; let it boil a few minutes, and strain it through a tammy: to make beshemell, put as much cream as will make it of a good wdiite; it should have a little tinge of yellow, which is done by adding a small pi£ce of light coloured glaze. N. B. Beshemell should not boil more than one or two minutes, as boiling is very apt to spoil the colour. — Those three sauces are the ground-work of all made dishes. 110 YAL COOK. 23 WHITE BRAISE. Take the udder of a leg of veal that you have cut a fricando out of, put it in a stewpan with cold water, and let it come to a boil; then put it into cold water foi a few minutes, and cut it in small pierVv, put them into a stewpan, with a small bit of butter, onions, a little thyme and parsley, a few blades of mace, lemon that is pared to the pidp, cut in thin slices, and a spoonful of water; put it over a slow stove, and keep stirring it for a few minutes; then add a little white stock. As to quantity, it must be according to what you want to braise; it is generally used for tenderones of lamb, chickens, pigeons, tenderones of veal, or any thing you wish to make look white. BROWN BRAISE. Cut some beef suet, trimmings of mutton cutlets, or any other trimmings; put them into a stewpan, with four onions, a faggot of thyme and parsley, basil, mar 24 THE IMPERIAL AND joram, mace, and a carrot cut into slices; put it over the fire; and put a bit of butter, a little stock, a few bay leaves, and six heads of celery, in the stewpan: let it draw down about half an hour, then fill it up it; second stock, or weak broth, and add a i tie white wine to it. This braise is used for beef, mutton, veal, ham, or any thing you want to eat mellow. DRY BRAISE. Put the trimmings of beef, mutton, or veal, into a stewpan, (the size according to what is intended to be braised,) and a few onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, a few blades of mace, and a few bay leaves; put as much second stock as will come about three parts up to the meat; then cover the meat with sheets of bacon, or the fat of ham, if convenient; then lay on that which is intended to be braised. It is the best method for doing all larded things; they take rather longer in doing, but eat much better; and the bacon looks better by not letting any liquid come near it. ROYAL COOK. 25 SOUP SANTE. Shred turnips, carrots, small onions, and Spanish onions (when to be had), cut cabbage lettuce, and a pint of asparagus peas; put all into a soup-pot, with a pint of stock; set them an a stove to boil until the stock is quite reduced, but not catched; then fill up the pot with good stock, and put two small lumps of sugar in, and a little salt, if wanted. JELLY STOCK. Bone four or more calves’ feet, and put them into a stewpan that will hold about six quarts, (if more than four, a larger in proportion to the number of calves’ feet;) let them boil gently for four hours, then take out the meat part, and put it into cold water; when cold, trim it for any use it is intended; throw the trimmings back into the stock; let it boil until you think it is come to its proper strength: it cannot boil too long: for four feet you should add two quarts of stock. c 26 THE IMPERIAL AXD A GENERAL MEAGRE STOCK, FOR SOUPS, SAUCE, AND OTHER USES. tt • • Cut two large carp into thin pieces; two tench, and two eels, in the same manner; put about half a pound of butter into a soup-pot that will hold- about eight quarts; put in the fish and bones, eighteen large onions, a little thyme and parsley, eight heads of celery, two carrots, a few blades of mace, six bay leaves, two dozen of anchovies,’ without washing, and about a pint of water; set it on a slow stove, and let it draw down gently for two hours; it should be quite dry at the bottom before you fill it up, then fill it up with hot water; let it boil for three hours; be sure that it does not boil fast; (the slower all soups boil, the better:) strain it through a tammy sieve. N. B. Sea fish are equally as good for this use, or better. Throw all the bones from the fillets into the stock. HOT FORCE-MEAT, COMMONLY CALLED FARCE. Cut veal (according to the quantity you want of force-meat, without any sinews,) UOYAL COOK. 27 into small pieces, and as much fat bacon, or fat ham, which is better; half as much marrow, or beef suet; put it into a stewpan, with a little bit of butter at the bottom; season it with chopped parsley, mushrooms, (truffles, if you have any,) shalot, pepper, and salt, a little Cayenne pepper, and a small quantity of pounded spice; put it over the fire, and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon, until the juice of the meat begins to run; let it simmer about ten minutes, then put it to cool: when cold, put it into a mortar, gravy, fat, and all, and let it be well pounded, until it is quite fine; then take it out, and it is fit for use. N. B. Use half as much lean ham as veal, in either hot or cold force-meat. COLD FORCE-MEAT FOR BALLS, AND OTHER USES. The veal should be either scraped, or chopped very fine, and be very particular about leaving sinews in the veal; the same quantity of scraped bacon, or fat ham; a 28 THE IMPERIAL AND little marrow, or suet: put it into the mortar, and let it be well pounded; season it with chopped parsley, shalots, mushrooms, pepper, and salt, a little Cayenne pepper, and pounded spice: when sufficiently beaten, put an egg and a few bread crumbs, and stir it about to mix it; take it out of the mortar, and make it up into balls, or for any other use. N. B. You must use more or less egg, and bread crumbs, according to the quantity of force-meat: when you make it up in balls, it should be rolled up in flour: , when boiled, let the stock be boiling before you put the other thing’s in. EGG BALLS, FOR TURTLE, MOCK TURTLE, &c.; Boil the eggs hard, and put them in cold water; take out the yolks, put them in a mortar, and pound them very fine; wet them with raw yolks, (at the rate of three raw yolks to eight hard ones,) season them with white pepper and salt, dry them with flour, and roll them into bails, rather ROYAL COOK. 29 small, as they swell very much in boiling; boil them in stock for a few minutes. PIQUANT SAUCE. Put a little chopped shalot into a stewpan, and season with salt: let it boil until the stock is boiled away, but not burnt to the bottom; add as much coulis as you want sauce; let it boil a few minutes, squeeze a lemon into it, season it with a little pepper and salt, a little sugar, and two drops of garlic vinegar. POIVRADE SAUCE. Run the bottom of a small stewpan witli a clove of garlic; put a small piece of butter, a few slices of onions, a little stock and vinegar, and about twelve grains of old pepper; let it boil down; add a little flour to thicken it, and a little coulis; strain it through a tammy, and squeeze in a lemon. y THE IMPERIAL AND 30 CARROT SAUCE. Cut the red part of a large carrot into small dice, very neat; boil them in a little best stock until it comes to a glaze, then add coulis according to the quantity of sauce that is wanted. SAUCE HASHIS. Cut a few mushrooms, onions, pickled cucumbers, walnuts, (first scraping the black coat off,) and carrots, into dice; boil them in a little stock, until it comes to a glaze; then add coulis, and let it boil. ALEMAND SAUCE. Put a little minced ham into a stewpan, and a few trimmings of poultry, either dressed or undressed; three or four shalots, one very small clove of garlic, a bay leaf, two tarragon leaves, and a few spoonfuls of stock; let them simmer for half an hour; strain it off, and add coulis; squeeze ROYAL COOK. 31 in a lemon, season with pepper and salt, and a little Cayenne pepper and sugar. ITALIAN SAUCE, BROWN. Put a few chopped truffles and shalots into a stewpan, with a slice of ham; mince it very fine, and add a little stock; let it simmer for a quarter of an hour; put beshemell to it, according to the quantity of sauce that is wanted; let it boil about a nr.ffiiiie; if it should lose its colour, add a a little cream, and strain it through a tammy; season it with a little salt, a few drops of garlic vinegar, squeeze of a lemon, and a little sugar. SORREL SAUCE. Chop about four large handfuls of sorrel; put it into a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, a slice of ham, and two onions, chopped fine; put them on a fire to simmer for half an hour, then rub it 32 THE IMPERIAL AND through a tammy, and add a little coulis to it; squeeze a lemon, and a Seville orange, if to be had; if not, two lemons; a little pepper, salt, and sugar, to make it palatable. Sorrel is generally sour enough of itself. CHERVIL SAUCE. Pick some shervil, leaf by leaf; put it into a small stewpan, with a spoonful of best stock; simmer it till the stewpan becomes dry, then add as much coulis as is requisite; squeeze a lemon, put a little sugar to make it palatable, and a little Madeira. SHALOT SAUCE. Chop six shalots, put them in the stewpan, with a little stock; let it simmer for a quarter of an hour, add a little coulis, squeeze in a lemon, and put a little sugar, &c.; ROYAL COOK. S3 ROYAL SAUCE, EITHER WHITE OR BROWN. I Cut a chicken itito pieces, and about half a pound of lean Westphalia ham, six or eight shalots, a faggot of parsley, and a few blades of mace; put all into a stewpan, with a little stock to draw it down; when down, add coulis to it, strain it through a tammy, season it with lemon, &cc.; If for white, use beshemell instead of coulis. FLEMISH SAUCE. Boil a sprig of thyme, two shalots, and a bit of lemon peel, a few minutes, in a small quantity of the best stock; strain it off; add a little coulis, season with pepper and salt, squeeze a lemon, and put a little sugar.. RAVIGOT SAUCE. Put into a stewpan a very small clove of garlic, burnet, a few leaves of tarragon, c 5 34 THE IMPERIAL AND a little chopped chalot, chopped mushrooms, truffles, and parsley; let them simmer a few minutes in a little very good stock; add as much coulis as is requisite for the quantity of sauce wanted; let it boil about a quarter of an hour, then rub it through a tammy, put it into a stewpan, squeeze a lemon, add a little sugar, pepper, and salt. SPANISH SAUCE. Slice four or five large onions, put them into a stewpan, with a little vinegar and half a pint of sherry, a small clove of garlic, a chopped truffle, a little shalot, some ham cut very fine, a bay leaf, a few blades of mace, and as much coulis as is requisite; boil all together very slow for a quarter of an hour, rub it through a tammy, squeeze a lemon, or orange, if to be had; season with pepper and salt, and a little vinegar. r 110 YAL COOK. 35 SAUCE A LA REINE. Cut up a fowl, half a pound of lean ham, six or eight shalots, and a few blades of mace; put them all in a stewpan, with a little best stock; put it on a stove to simmer about a quarter of an hour, then add three pints of stock, boil it for half an hour, and strain it off; put about two ounces of butter into a stewpan; when melted, add as much flour as will dry it up, then add what you have just strained off, and about half a pint of cream; boil it for a few minutes, and strain it through a tammy. CUCUMBER SAUCE. Cut the cucumbers, after peeling them, into quarters; then cut all the seeds out; cut each quarter into three pieces, and pare them round; peel as many small onions as pieces of cucumber; put them all into a little vinegar and water, with a little pepper and salt; let them lay in it for two hours pour off the vinegar and water, and. 7 36 THE IMPERIAL AND put as much stock as will barely cover them; boil them down to a glaze, add as much coulis as you think proper, let it boil for a few minutes, squeeze a lemon, and put a little sugar. DUTCH SAUCE. Slice an onion, put it into a stewpan with a little scraped horse-radish, two anchovies, a little elder vinegar, and some second stock; boil it for ten minutes, strain it through a hair sieve, return it into a stewpan, and make a liaison of two € gg s; put it to the sauce, and set it on the fire to come to a boil. MUSHROOMS, EITHER FOR FIRST OR SECOND COURSE. Pare the mushrooms the same as an apple, put them in the water, and squeeze a lemon into it; then put about two ounces of butter into a stewpan that will hold a quart of mushrooms; put in the mush ROYAL COOK. 37 rooms, with a little pepper and salt, and the juice of two lemons; put them over a slow fire to draw down: they discharge a great deal of liquor, and should remain on the fire until the liquor has boiled away, and they become quite dry; but be careful not to let them stick to the bottom of the stewpan: when done, put them into sweetmeat pots, fill them three parts full, and fill the pot up to the top with clarified butter, quite hot. N. B. The pots will not require to be covered over when they are wanted for use; put the mushrooms into a stewpan to w r arm, strain the butter from them, and put them either into brown or white sauce, according to what they are wanted for. By following this method, you may have mushrooms all the year round. TRUFFLES TO KEEP A YEAR, OR MORE. Brush the dirt very clean from them after washing them in several waters, then put them into a stewpan; put in 38 THE IMPERIAL AND some very strong stock, and half the quantity of fat from a brown braise, a quart of sherry to about six pounds of truffles, one dozen of onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, a few blades of mace tied up in the faggot; put the stewpan on a slow stove to boil for one hour; then take them out, and divide those which you wish to send for second course, which should be the largest and roundest; peel the others, and put them in sweet-meat pots, the un peeled the same; skim the fat from the braise, and clarify it; boil the other part to a glaze, pour it over the truffles, and then add the fat, while quite hot; the truffles should be entirely covered. N. B. The reason for peeling the truffles that are wanted for entres, &c.; is, that they are ready at a short notice, take up less room, and do not waste the glaze that they are preserved in; it is very excellent for giving the proper flavour to the sauce. ROYAL COOK. 39 BEEF MADE DISHES. OX RUMPS. About four ox rumps make a good dish; put them into a brain braise, and let them do very slow for about five hours; when they are done, put as many bundles of cabbage as you think are wanting, (one cabbage will make four bundles;) the cabbage should be three parts boiled, theh squeezed very dry with the hand, and lastly with a cloth, so as not to leave the least drop of water in the cabbage; tie the bundles up with packthread, and put them into the braise for one hour; take them up and squeeze the fat from them; put the rumps on the dish, and the cabbage round them; either glaze the rumps, or pour Spanish sauce on the cabbage. BEEF PALATES ROLLED. Boil six ox palates in the broth pot until nearly done, then take them up, peel 40 THE IMPERIAL AND and trim them, brush the inside over with egg, lay a layer of force-meat on the egg, roll them up, and tie them with a string, put them into a white braise for about two hours, take them out, dry and glaze them i make a ragout of the trimmings, and a few very small egg balls; put the ragout on the dish first, and the palates on the ragout. The, ragout is made as follows: shred the palates in neat pieces, and put them into a stewpan, with coulis and a glass of sherry wine, squeeze either a lemon or orange, a few drops of shalot vinegar, and a little sugar, salt, and pepper. BRISKET OF BEEF STEWED. Cut the bone from a brisket of beef, tie it up, and put it into a brown braise; it will take about five hours; put six Spanish onions into a stewpan, with some second stock, and boil it down to a glaze; take the beef up, trim it neat, and glaze it; put Spanish sauce on the dish, the onions round the dish, and the beef in the middle; the onions should be glazed. ROYAL COOK. 41 A FILLET OF BEEF LAltDED. Cut the fillet out of a sirloin of beef, trim it, and lard it; then lay it in a marinade, made as follows: — put the fillet, after it is larded, in a deep dish, pour about half a pint of sallad oil over it, slice four or five onions, spread them over the meat, a few bay leaves and basil, and over them pour half a pint of vinegar; let it lay in this all night, then put it into a braising pan (but not a very deep one) with the marinade, and about a pint of stock, covered with bacon and pepper; be sure to let it simmer very gently; it will take two hours; when done, pour off the liquor, and strain it; skim the fat from it very clean, reduce it to a glaze, and put Spanish sauce to it; boil four Spanish onions until they are done, glaze them, and put them round the beef when you dish it; put the sauce on the dish first, then glaze the beef, and put it on the sauce. THE IMPERIAL AND 42 PETHS AU GRATIN. Peths are taken out of the chine bones of beef, mutton, or veal; put them on to blanch; when come to a boil, take them off the fire, and throw them into cold water; wash them, and put them on a cloth to dry; dip them in egg, and then in bread crumbs; do them twice over, and have clean lard in a stewpan; when hot, put in the peths, fry them of a light brown, and serve them up with fried parsley. RUMP OF BEEF A LA MANTUA. Trim a rump of beef, daube it, and put in a marinade for twelve hours; then put it into a brown braise; put four large carrots into a braise along with the beef, and four bundles of cabbage; when the beef is done, take it up, and put it in the oven for a few minutes; then glaze it; put sauce allemande on the dish and the cabbage, and a piece of carrot between each bundle of cabbage. t KOVAL COOK. 43 COLLARED BEEF. It is made from the fat ribs boned, and sprinkled with salt-petre and coarse brown sugar, and left so for two days; then make about tw r o pounds of salt quite hot in a frying-pan, and rub it well into the beef; let it lay in salt for ten days; wash it over with the pickle every second day, and turn it; put a few bay leaves in the pickle, and sprinkle the beef over- with a little fine spice about a week before it is boiled; before it is tied up in the cloth to boil, beat it for about five minutes upon the chopping-block w ith the flat part of the heaviest cleaver you have; this makes it tender, and roll up the better, and w r hen boiled will keep its shape; it should be boiled very tender, then taken up, and the ends of the cloth wrung quite hard, and tied up tighter; then put it into a press with an heavy weight upon it: if you have no press, put it in a dish, and press it as well as you can, and put the weight on it. N. B. Two ounces of salt-petre, and two ounces of sugar, are quite sufficient. 44 THE IMPERIAL AND Some use the flank of beef stuffed with parsley and ground all-spice. BCEUF DE CHASSE. Rub two ounces of pounded salt-petre well into a round of beef; put the beef into a large pan, or wooden bowl, that will just hold it; let it lay so for two days, then make two pounds of salt very hot, and rub it on the beef; put about four ounces of good coarse moist sugar to the salt: when done, put the beef back into the pan or bowl, turn it every third day, and rub the brine over it every time it is turned; it should remain in salt three weeks; then skewer it up very tight, and bind it with a broad fillet; either bake it or braise it in a braising pan that will just hold it; put water sufficient to cover it, and about two dozen of onions, and six heads of celery, a large faggot of thyme and parsley, and other sweet herbs, and about three parts of beef suet cut fine; put it over the fire to boil very slow for eight hours: put a heavy royal cook. 45 weight on the lid of the braising pan, otherwise the beef will raise the cover off when it begins to swell; it will take equal time in an oven; let it remain in the liquor until cold, then take it out and trim it for the table. N. B. This is more suitable for a Christmas dish than for any other time of the year. ‘ HODGE PODGE. Hodge Podge is made as follows: bone two fowls, and cut them in quarters; cut half a dozen of thick steaks from a loin of mutton, and take all the bone out; cut an equal quantity of brisket of beef that has been stewed, and about a pound of the brisket part of the breast of veal, cut in thin slices; put all into a stewpan, with about a pound of lean ham cut the same as the veal; put the ham at the bottom of the hot, then the veal and mutton, and the fowl and the beef at the top; put a pint of water, and set the stewpan on the fire to boil very slow for two hours; then fill it up 46 THE IMPERIAL AND with clear second stock or broth; skim it very clean, and let it boil gently by the side of a stove for about half an hour; have scooped turnips, carrots, and button onions, peeled, three heads of celery cut in small pieces: put all into a stewpan, with about half a pint of stock, and set it on a stove to boil very slowly until the stock is reduced; then fill up the stewpan with stock, and let it boil for a few minutes; then put the roots to the meat, and let it boil for a few minutes; put it in the tureen, season it with a little salt if wanted, and a little sugar. BEEF OLIVES, WITH SAUCE RESTAURET. Cut about seven thin slices of beef from the rump, the same as you would cut beef steaks; beat them very well with a beater, brush them over with egg, and then sprinkle them with fine herbs; season them with pepper and salt, roll them up quite tight, put a little stock at the bottom of a stewpan that will exactly hold them. ROYAL COOK. 47 (for, by being 1 pressed together, they will keep their shape better,) cover them with fat bacon cut in sheets, and put paper over that; put them on a stove to do very gently, the slower the better; they will take full two hours; take them up, and lay six round the dish, and one in the middle; pour sauce restauret over them. BEEF PALATES. Bon, them till tender, then blanch and scrape them; rub them over with mace, nutmeg, cloves, and pepper, mixed with crumb of bread; put them into the stewpan with hot butter, and fry them brown on both sides; pour off the fat; put as much beef and mutton gravy into a stewpan as if for sauce, an anchovy, a little lemonjuice, salt to make it palatable, and a piece of butter rolled in flour; when these have simmered a quarter of an hour, dish them up, and garnish with slices of lemon. 48 THE IMPERIAL AND TRIPE. Cut it into small square pieces; put them into your stewpan, with as much white wine as will cover them, white pepper, grated ginger, a blade of mace, rweet herbs, and an onion; stew it a quarter of an hour; take out the herbs and onion, and put in a little chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, half an anchovy cut small, a gill of cream, and either the yolk of an egg, or a piece of butter; season to your taste, and garnish with lemon. STEWED BEEF. Take a piece of fat beef, cut the meat from the bones, flour and fry it in a large stewpan, with butter, till brown; then cover it in the pan with a gravy made in the following manner: take a pound of coarse beef, half a pound of veal cut small, sweet herbs, and onions, whole black and white pepper, mace, cloves, a piece of carrot, and a slice of lean bacon, (steep it in vinegar,) a crust of bread toasted brown, 6 ROYAL COOK. 49 and a quart of white wine; let it boil till it is half wasted; pour a quart of boiling water into the stewpan; let it stew gently: as soon as the gravy is made, pour it into the stewpan with the beef: take an ounce of truffles and morels, cut small, with some fresh or dried mushrooms, and two spoonfuls of catsup; cover it close, and let it stew till the sauce is thick and rich; have ready some artichoke bottoms, quartered, and a few pickled mushrooms; boil the whole together; lay the meat in a dish, pour the .sauce over it, and serve it hot. ROUND OF BEEF FORCED. Rub the meat first with common salt, then with bay salt, salt-petre, and coarse sugar; lay it a week in this pickle, turning it every day; when to be dressed, wash, drv, and lard it a little; make holes, and fill them with stuffing of bread, marrow, or suet, parsley, grated lemon-peel, sweet lierbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the yolk of an ogg; bake it in water and small beer D 50 THE IMPERIAL AND whole pepper, and onion: when done, skim off the fat, put the meat into a dish, and pour the liquor over it. BEEF A LA MODE. The small buttock, leg-of-mutton -piece, the clod, or a part of a large buttock, are all proper for this purpose: take either of these, with two dozen of cloves, mace in proportion, and half an ounce of all-spice beat fine; chop a large handful of parsley, and all sorts of sweet herbs, very fine; cut some fat bacon as long as the beef is thick, and about a quarter 6f an inch square, and put it into the spice, &c.; and the beef into the same; put the beef into a pot, and cover it with water; chop four large onions very fine, and six cloves of garlic, six bay leaves, and an handful of champignons, or fresh mushrooms; put all into the pot, with a pint of strong beer, and half a pint of red wine; put pepper, salt, Cayenne pepper, and a spoonful of vinegar; strew three handfuls of bread raspins, sifted ROYAL COOK. 51 fine, otfer all; cover close, and stew it for six or eight hours, according to the size of the piece; then take the beef out, put it into a deep dish, and keep it hot; strain the gravy through a sieve, and pick out the champignions, or mushrooms; skim off all the fat, put it into your pot again, and give it a boil up; season it to your liking; then put your gravy over your beef, and send it hot to table. If you prefer it cold, cut it in slices, with the gravy over it, and it will be a strong jelly. TONGUE AND UDDER FORCED. Parboil and blanch your tongue, stick it full of cloves, and fill the udder with force-meat made of veal: first wash the inside with the yolk of an egg, put in the force-meat, tie the ends close, spit it, roast it, and baste it with butter: when done, put good gravy into the dish, and serve it with sweet sauce. 52 THE IMPERIAL AND A FRICANDEAU OF BEEF. Cut some slices of beef five or six inches long, and half an inch thick; lard them %ith bacon, drudge with flour, and set it before a brisk fire to brown; then put it in a tossing-pan, with a quart of good stock, some morels and truffles, and half a lemon; stew them half an hour; add one spoonful of catsup, the same of browning, and a little Cayenne pepper; thicken your sauce, pour it over, and lay force-meat balls and the yolks of hard eggs round it. PORTUGAL BEEF. Take out the bone of a rump of beef, cut it across, flour it, and fry the thin part in butter; stuff the thick end with suet, boiled cliesnuts, an anchovy, an onion, and pepper; stew it in a pan of good stock, and, when tender, lay the stewed part in a dish, cut the fried in two, and lay on each side of the stew; strain the gravy it was stewed in, put to it girkins chopped, and ROYAL COOK. 515 boiled chesnuts, thicken with butter rolled in flour, add a spoonful of browning’, boil it up, season with salt, and pour it over the beef: garnish with lemon. BEEF A LA VINGRETTE. Cut a slice, three inches thick, from a round of beef, with some fat to it; stew it in a quart of second stock, and add a glass of white wine; season with salt, pepper, cloves, sweet herbs, and a bay leaf; boil it till the liquor is nearly gone, and send it to table cold. BEEF STEAKS ROLLED. Flatten three or four beef steaks, then make a force-meat, beat a pound of veal in a mortar, half a pound of cold ham, the kidney fat of a loin of lamb, chopped with sweetbread cut in pieces, an ounce of truffles and morels, first stewed, and then cut small, some parsley, the yolks of four eggs, a nutmeg grated, lemon-peel cut fine, pepper, salt, and half a pint of cream; 54 THE IMPERIAL AND mix all together, lay it on your steaks, roll them up tight of a good size, and confine them with a small skewer; put them into a stewpan, and fry them of a nice brown; skim off all the fat, and put in a pint of good fried gravy; to which add one spoonful of catsup, two of red wine, and a few mushrooms; let them stew half an hour, then take up the steaks, cut them in two, lay the outside uppermost, and pour the sauce over them: garnish with lemon. A RUMP OF BEEF A LA DAUBE, AND CABBAGE. Trim a rump of beef, and daube it; put it in a marinade the night before, and then put it on in a brown braise; it will take four hours; (remember that it must do very slow): about an hour before it is wanted put in about six bundles of savoy cabbage; the cabbage should be about half boiled in water, then squeezed very dry, and tied up in bundles; put Spanish sauce on the dish, the cabbage round, and the beef in the middle: garnish with carrot. N. B. The beef should be glazed. ROYAL COOK. 55 MUTTON MADE DISHES. SOUTIES OF MUTTON AND CUCUMBERS. Cut a neck or loin of mutton into cutlets, butter a soutiespan, and sprinkle it over with a shalot, parsley, pepper, salt, and chopped mushrooms; put the cutlets to pass off; when done, lay them round the side of the stewpan; put a little stock in the middle, and a sheet of white paper, cut round, over the cutlets; they will take one hour over a slow stove; dish them round a dish, the cucumber sauce in the middle. N. B. Bone the mutton before you cut it up. SHEEPS’ RUMPS AND KIDNEYS. Bone four rumps, or more, (properly called tails,) fill them with force-meat, and put them in a white braise; split four kidneys, and put them into the braise; put them on a slow stove, to simmer gently 56 THE IMPERIAL AND for two hours; put piquant sauce on the dish, the rumps round the sides, and kidneys in the middle. N. B. The rumps should be glazed, and a little sauce poured over the kidneys. SHEEP’S TROTTERS IN GRATIN. Boil them in water, and then put them into a stewpan with half a pint of white wine, half a pint of second stock, as much coulis, a faggot of sweet herbs, with salt, whole pepper, and mace; stew them by a slow fire till the sauce is reduced, and serve them upon a gratin. Sheep’s trotters may be served with a ragout of cucumbers. A LEG OF MUTTON ROASTED WITH OYSTERS. Stuff a leg of mutton that has hung up two or three days all over with oysters; roast if; and, when done, pour good gravy into a dish: garnish with horse-radish. ROYAL COOK. 57 SHOULDER OF MUTTON CALLED HEN AND CHICKENS. Half roast a shoulder of mutton, then cut off the blade at the first joint, and both the flaps, to make the blade round; score the blade round in diamonds, put pepper and salt over it, and set it in a Dutch oven to broil; cut the flaps of meat off the shank in thin slices, and put the gravy that comes out of the mutton into a stewpan, with a little good stock, two spoonfuls of walnut catsup, one of browning, a little Cayenne pepper, and one or two shalots: when the meat is tender, thicken it with flour and butter, put it into the dish with the gravy, and lay the blade on the top: garnish with green pickles. OXFORD JOHN. Cut very thin col lops from a leg of mutton, and take out all the sinews and fat; season with pepper, salt, and mace, and strew over a little parsley and two or three shalots; put a lump of butter into a D 5 58 THE IMPERIAL AND stewpan, and when it is hot put in the collops; stir them with a wooden spoon till three parts done, then add half a pint of stock and a little lemon-juice; thicken with flour and butter; let them simmer for four or five minutes, when they will be done: put them into a dish, with the sauce, and throw fried pieces of bread, cut in dice, over and round them: garnish with pickles. MUTTON RUMPS BRAISED. Boil six rumps for a quarter of an hour; take them out, cut them in two, and put them into a stewpan, with a little stock, a gill of white wine, an onion stuck with cloves, salt, and Cayenne pepper; cover them close, and stew them till tender; take them and the onion out; thicken the gravy with butter rolled in flour, a spoonful of browning, and the juice of half a lemon; boil it till smooth, but not too thick; put in the rumps, give them a shake or two, and dish them up hot: garnish with horse-radish and beat-root. ROYAL COOK. 59 N. B. For a change, the rumps may be left whole, and six kidneys larded on one side, and done the same as the rumps, but not boiled; put the rumps in the middle of the dish, with kidneys round them, and sauce over them. HARICOT OF MUTTON. Take off some of the fat of the middle or best end of the neck, cut it into thin steaks, put the fat into a frying-pan, flour, and fry them lightly of a fine light brown, then put them into a dish, while you fry carrots, turnips, and sliced onions; lay the steaks at the bottom of a stewpan, the vegetables over them, and cover them with boiling water; give them one boil, skim, and then set the pan on the side)f the fire, to simmer gently till tender; skim off all the fat; add pepper, salt, and a spoonful of catsup; send them to table hot. 60 THE IMPERIAL AND CHINA CHILO. Mince a basonful of undressed neck of mutton, with fat to it; put two onions, a lettuce, a pint of green peas, salt, pepper, four spoonfuls of water, and some clarified butter, into a stewpan closely covered; simmer two hours, and serve it in the middle of a dish; boil dry rice; and Cayenne pepper, if approved of. LAMB MADE DISHES.. LOIN OF LAMB BRAISED, AND CELERY SAUCE. Bone a loin of lamb, lay the bottom of a stewpan with fat bacon, and lay the lamb in; put a few onions, bits of carrots, a little parsley, and a few blades of mace tied up with it; cover the lamb with fat bacon and paper, put about a pint of stock, setit on the fire, and let it do very gently for about two hours; take it up, dry it, ROYAL COOK. 61 and glaze it; put the celery on the dish first, and the lamb upon the celery. A SHOULDER OF LAMB LARDED. Take the blade out of a shoulder of lamb, fill it with force-meat, sew it up with twine, and then lard it; put the trimmings of any sort of meat into a stewpan, with onions, celery, a faggot, and bits of carrots; put the lamb upon those, cover it with fat bacon, put a quart of second stock, and let it do very gently for two hours; put a little lighted charcoal upon the lid of the stewpan, to raise the bacon; when done, take it up, and put it in the oven for a few minutes; put sorrel sauce on the dish, and then the lamb. TWO NECKS OF LAMB CHEVAUX DE FRISE. Trim two necks of lamb very neatly, strip and scrape the bones very clean from the meat; lard the fillet part, which is the lean, the length of the neck; the fat at the 62 THE IMPERIAL AND best end to be taken equal to the lean of the other end; braise them in a dry braise; when done, take them up, and put the bones one within the other; put them in the oven for a few minutes, glaze them, and put cucumber sauce in the dish, and then the lamb. LAMBS’ FEET, WITH ASPARAGUS PEAS. It will take twelve lambs’ feet to make a corner dish; they are had ready scalded from the butcher; take the worm from between the hoof first, and then loosen the skin and gristle from the shank-bone; then put them on in cold water; let them boil until the shank-bone will draw out; then cover the bottom of a stewpan with sheets of bacon; put in the lambs’ feet, and two lemons peeled and sliced, and half a pint of second stock; cover the feet over with bacon and paper, and set the stewpan on a stove, to simmer very gently for an hour: when done, take them up, and lay them on a clean cloth to dry; then lay them round the dish, and put the asparagus peas over ROYAL COOK. 63 the feet; the asparagus should be put into a stewpan, with as much stock as will barely cover them, and set on a stove to boil until the stock is quite reduced, (but not to burn to the bottom;) then put beshemell according to what is wanted; set it by the side of a stove to make hot, but not to boil, as it would spoil the colour of the sauce by boiling. LAMB CUTLETS LARDED, BREAST ROLLED, AND FRENCH BEANS. Lard eight lamb cutlets, blanch them off, and lay bacon on the bottom of a stewpan; put the cutlets in, and about half a pint of stock; cover them with sheets of bacon, and put paper over them; bone the breast of lamb, beat it with a flatter, brush it over with egg, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it, and spread some good force-meat over it; roll it up, and tie it up with pack-thread; put it into a white braise; it will take about two hours; then take it up, dry it with a cloth, and glaze 7 64 THE IMPERIAL AND it; take the cutlets up, and put them in the oven for a few minutes; then glaze them, and put the French beans on the dish, the cutlets round the dish, and the breast of lamb in the middle. TUREEN OF LAMBS’ TAILS. Lambs’ tails are had from the butcher ready scalded; they should be blanched off, and then put into a white braise; when very tender, take them up, cut them into lengths of about two inches, and put them into a small soup-pot until you want them; lay the bottom of a stewpan with lean ham; cut up two old fowls, and put them to the ham, with four large onions, a faggot, and a few blades of mace: put in half a pint of water; put the stewpan on the fire, to draw down very slow for one hour, (be careful that it does not catch at the bottom;) then put two quarts of stock; let it boil for an hour, but very slow, so that it does not waste by boiling; strain it, and skim the fat off quite clean; boil one ROYAL COOK. 65 pint of asparagus peas in some of the stock that the old fowls were boiled in: when done, put asparagus peas, and the remainder of the stock, to the lambs’ tails, and set the soup-pot at the side of a stove, to boil for a few minutes; make a liaison of four yolks of eggs, and one pint of cream that has boiled; when strained, put a pint of beshemell to the liaison; take the soup from the fire, and put the liaison in; keep stirring it all the while; then put it on the fire until it begins to come to a boil; be sure to keep stirring the soup during the time it is on the fire: if it should be ready before it is wanted, put the soup-pot into a stewpan of hot water, and set it on the side of a stove. QUARTER OF LAMB FORCED. Cut a long slit in a large leg of lamb, and take out the meat; the front of it must not be defaced; chop the meat small, with marrow, beef suet, oysters, washed anchovy, an onion, sweet herbs, lemon-peel beaten, mace, and nutmeg; beat all toge 66 THE IMPERIAL AND ther in a mortar, stuff the leg in its original shape, sew it up, rub it over with yolks of eggs, and roast it for an hour, basting it with butter: cut the loin into steaks, season them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, lemon-peel cut fine, and a few herbs; fry them in fresh butter, of a fine brown; pour out the butter, put in a quarter of a pint of white wine, and add half a pint of strong stock, a quarter of a pint of oysters, with their liquor, some mushrooms, a spoonful of pickle, butter rolled in flour, and the yolk of an egg: stir all together till thick, then lay your leg of lamb in the dish, and lay the steaks round it; pour the sauce over it: garnish with lemon. A LEG OF LAMB AND HARICOT BEANS. A leg of lamb will take one hour and a half to roast; put the haricot beans in the dish first. N. B. Butter, salt, and flour the lamb. AND ROYAL COOK. 67 CHINE OF LAMB, AND CUCUMBER SAUCE. Tie the lamb on a spit, butter, salt, and paper it; put it to the fire, and baste it well; it will take one hour and a half; put the sauce on the dish, and the lamb upon it. VEAL MADE DISHES. VEAL OLIVES. Cut six slices off a fillet of veal; let them be about ten inches long, and about four inches wide; beat them with a flatter, to make them thin; brush them over with an egg, (beat up white and yolks together;) spread a layer of force-meat, and brush them over with egg; roll them up quite close, and lay them in a stewpan that will just hold them; lay lairs of bacon on the bottom of the stewpan, and lay the olives on the bacon; put a few spoonfuls of good 68 THE IMPERIAL AND stock, and cover them over with lairs of bacon; let them do gently for one hour; then take them out, and dry them with a cloth; put them on a dish, and pour a sharp sauce over them. A BREAST OF VEAL RAGOUTED WHOLE. Cut the chine bone from a breast of veal, then cut the tenderones out, (as they will do for another dish,) cover the bottom of a stewpan with fat bacon, lay the veal in, put three onions, a blade of mace, and parsley; cover it over with bacon, and then with white paper; put about three pints of second stock; put it on a slow stove to simmer for about two hours and a half; take it up, pull all the bones from it, dish it, and put a ragout of sweet-bread, mushrooms, and force-meat balls, over the veal. The ragout is made as follows: — put a few mushrooms into a stewpan, with a small quantity of butter, a little pepper and salt, and half a lemon squeezed; put it on a slow stove for a quarter of an hour. ROYAL COOK. 69 or until the mushrooms are done; cut two long sweetbreads in slices, put them to the mushrooms, and about two dozen of forcemeat balls, and one dozen of egg balls; put sauce tourney as much as you think will do; add two glasses of Madeira; and the braise strained, skimmed, and boiled down to a glaze, answers two purposes; first, it gives a right flavour to the ragout; next the glaze gives it a fine gold colour. TENDRONES OF VEAL. Tenderones of veal are the gristlebone of the breast of veal; cut it into thin slices, and put them into a stewpan, with cold water; put them on the stove to blanch; take them off when they come to boil; put them into a white braise; let them simmer for four hours, by which time they will be tender; take them up, and lay them on a clean cloth to dry the fat from them; cut some braised truffles into slices, and put them into a coulis; add a little white wine, and a bit of truffle glaze, 70 THE IMPERIAL AND squeeze an orange, and put a little bit of sugar; dish them round a dish, and put the truffles in the middle. Garnish with croutons of bread and paste, or a slice of truffle between every tenderone. A LOIN OF VEAL A LA BESHEMELL. Put a loin of veal on the spit, (first cutting the chump end off, as that makes a fricandeau, or a la daube) do it over with oiled butter, sprinkle it with salt, paper it with double paper, tie it on with packthread, and put it to the fire; it will take two hours, or more, according to the size; when done, take it up, lay the kidney side on a dish, (not the one that is to be served upon); cut out a fillet, leaving about an inch at each end, and either mince it or cut it into collops; put some good beshemell to it, season it with a little garlic vineg’ar, pepper, salt, lemon, and sugar; put the mince, or collops, into the place where you cut the fillet from; put bread crumbs over it, and a little clarified butter: put it in ROYAL COOK. 71 the oven for a few minutes, and brown it with a salamander; put beshemell on the dish, and the veal upon the sauce. N. B. A loin or neck of veal, that has been served up, and not cut, will answer the same purpose as well as a fresh roasted one, by papering it, and putting it in the oven to make hot. A ROULARD OF VEAL AND MUSHROOMS. Bone a breast of veal, and beat it with a beater or chopper, (the more it is beat, the better it will keep its shape when rolled); brush it over with an egg beat up together; season it with pepper, spread some good force-meat over it, and egg the force-meat; roll the veal up with twine, and put it in a braise; it will take two hours or more: if there should be a ham or rump of beef braising, put the veal in the same pan; when done, take off the twine, but leave the skewers in, only put them out of sight; glaze it, and put the mushrooms under it. 72 THE IMPERIAL AND N. B. Sorrel, white haricot beans, French beans, Spanish sauce, haricot roots, stewed cucumbers, &c.; will answer as well as the mushrooms. WHITE COLLOPS AND CUCUMBERS. Cut the collops about half the size of a crown-piece, flat them, and put them on a souties-pan that has been buttered; put them over a stove for a few minutes, turn them, take them off, and put them into some hot beshemell; the cucumbers should be cut in quarters, and the seeds taken out; make two pieces of each quarter, let them lay in vinegar and water (with pepper and salt) about an hour before they are put on the fire; then put them into a stewpan, with a few spoonfuls of stock and a bit of butter; let them do gently till they are done, then put them to the collops. N. B. The collops should be sprinkled with shalot and parsley, chopped very fine before they are put on the stove. KOVAL COOK. 73 A FILLET OF. VEAL A LA FLAMOND. Daub a fillet of veal with bacon rolled well in fine herbs and fine spices; cover it with bacon and paper; either roast or braise it, ( it eats better roasted); it will take two hours and a half either to roast or braise; if braised, put a pint of sherry in the braise, and pour sauce flamond over the veal. BREAST OF VEAL A LA FLAMOND. Cover the bottom of a stewpan with bacon, put the veal in, and cover it with lairs of bacon; add a pint of stock and a pint of white wine; set it on a slow stove for two hours, or until the bones will part from the meat; take it up, strain the liquor that the veal was stewed in, and skim it; make the sauce from that; add mushrooms, squeeze a lemon, put a little shalot vinegar, and a little dust of sugar; dish the veal, and pour the sauce over it. E 74 THE IMPERIAL AND A NECK OF VEAL BRAISED, AND SAUCE A LA REINE. Trim a neck of veal, by cutting off the chine bone, and cutting the rib bones short; set it on the fire in cold water to blanch; when it comes to a boil, take it off and throw it into cold water; lay the bottom of the stewpan with sheets of bacon, put the veal in, and cover it with bacon; put in a few onions, a faggot, a few blades of mace, a bit or two of carrot, and one quart of stock; cover it with paper, and set it on the fire; it will take two hours to do; when done, take it up, dry it, and put the sauce over it. A SOUTIES OF SWEETBREADS, AND PIQUANT SAUCE. Cut two long sweetbreads that are about half done into thin slices; butter a soutiespan, and sprinkle it with chopped parsley, shalot, truffles or mushrooms, and a little pepper and salt; lay the sweetbreads on, and set them over a stove to simmer for five or six minutes; then turn them, and let ROYAL COOK. 79 i % SWEETBREADS OF VEAL A LA DAUPHINE. Take three of the largest sweetbreads you can get, and open them in such a manner that you can stuff in force-meat; make your force-meat with a large fowl, or a young cock; skin it, and pick off all the flesh; then take half a pound of fat and lean bacon, cut it very fine, and beat them in a mortar; season it with an anchovy, some nutmeg, a little lemon-peel, a little thyme, and some parsley: mix these up with the yolks of two eggs; fill your sweetbreads with it, and fasten them together with fine wooden skewers; put lairs of bacon at the bottom of the stewpan, and season them with pepper, salt, mace, cloves, sweet herbs, and a large onion sliced; lay upon this thin slices of veal, and then your sweetbreads; cover it close; let it stand eight er ten minutes over a slow fire, and then pour in a quart of boiling water or broth; let it stew gently for two hours, then take out the sweetbreads, keep them hot, strain the gravy, skim all the fat off, and boil it up till it is reduced to about 80 THE IMPERIAL AND half a pint; then put in the sweetbreads, and let them stew two or three minutes in the gravy; lay them in a dish, and pour the gravy over them: garnish with lemon. GERMAN WAY OF DRESSING A CALF’S HEAD. Take a large calf’s head, with great part of the neck cut with it split it in half, scald it very white, and take out the jaw-bone; take a large stewpan, and lay at the bottom some slices of bacon, then some thin beef steaks, with some pepper and salt; then lay in the head, pOur in some stock, large onions stuck with cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs; cover the stewpan very close, and set it over the stove to stew; then make a ragout with a quart of good beef gravy, and half a pint of red wine; let the wine be well boiled in the gravy; add to it some sweetbreads parboiled and cut in slices, some coxcombs, oysters, mushrooms, truffles, and morels; take it up, put it into a dish, take out the t ROYAL COOK. 81 brains, the eyes, and the bones; then slit the tongue, cut it into small pieces; cut the eyes in pieces also, and chop the brains; put this into a baking dish, and pour some of the ragout over them; then take the head, lay it upon the ragout, pour the rest over it, and on that some melted butter; then scrape some fine Parmesan cheese, strew it over with butter, and send it to the oven; it does not want much baking, but only requires to be made a nice brown. CALF’S PLUCK. Roast a calf’s heart, stuffed with suet,, sweet herbs, and parsley, crumbs of bread,, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little lemonpeel, all mixed together, with the yolk of an egg; boil the lights, and part of the liver when done; chop them small, and put them into a saucepan, with butter rolled in flour, some pepper, salt, and lemonjuice; fry the other part of the liver, with some thin slices of bacon; lay the mince at the bottom of the dish, lay the heart in the E 5 82 THE IMPERIAL AND middle, and the fried liver and bacon round it, with crisped parsley: serve it with plain melted butter. PILLOW OF VEAL. Have roasted a breast or neck of veal, cut it into chops, and season it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; put a pound of rice into a quart of stock, some mace, and a little salt; stew it very gently, till thick, but butter the boom of the pan you do it in; beat up the yolks of six eggs and stir them in; then take a small deep dish, butter it, and lay some of the rice at the bottom; then lay the veal in a heap, and cover it with rice; rub it over with yolks of eggs, and bake it an hour and a half; then open the top, and pour in a pint of rich gravy; send it hot to table: garnish with Seville orange cut in quarters. ROYAL COOK. 83 SCOTCH, OR SCORCHED COLLOPS. Cut the collops off’ the thick part of a leg of veal, of about the size of a crownpiece; put a piece of butter into your frying-pan, then lay in your collops, and fry them over a quick fire; shake, turn, and keep them in a fine froth; when they are of a nice brown, take them out, and put them into a pot; then put cold butter again into your pan, and fry the collops as before; when they are done, and properly browned, pour the liquor from them into a stewpan, and add to it half a pint of stock, half a lemon, an anchovy, half an ounce of morels, a spoonful of browning, one of catsup, and two of lemon-pickle; season to your taste with salt and Cayenne pepper; thicken with butter and flour; let it boil five or six minutes; put in your collops, and shake them over the fire, but do not let them boil; when they have simmered a little, take them out, and lay them in the dish; strain your sauce, and pour it hot on them; lay on them force-meat balls, and small slices of bacon curled round with 84 THE IMPERIAL AND 4 • a skewer and boiled; add a few mushrooms, and garnish with lemon. TUREEN OF CALVES’ TEET AND ASPARAGUS PEAS. Bone the calves’ feet, and put them on for jelly stock; when the feet are quite tender, take them up, and put them in cold water; when cold, trim them, and cut them in small pieces, and put them on a cloth to dry; put a quart of asparagus peas on to boil in about a quart of stock; set them on a slow stove; when the peas are quite tender, put them, with the stock that they were boiled in, into a small soup-pot, and three pints of stock; give it a boil up, and then put in the calves’ feet, and set the soup-pot by the side of the fire to keep hot, but not to boil; make a liaison of four eggs, and put about a pint of beshemell in the liaison; put the liaison in the soup, and set the soup over the fire until it begins to come to a boil; keep stirring it all the time, otherwise it will curdle: if the soup is 6 ROYAL COOK. 85 ready too soon, put the soup-pot into a stewpan of hot water to keep it hot; season it with a little salt, if wanted, and a lump of sugar. PORK MADE DISHES. A FILLET OF PORK. Bone either a neck or a loin of pork, and cut the rind off; put some second stock into a stewpan, with fat from any braise you have by you; put the pork into the stewpan, cover it with onions and sage, sprinkle it with salt, and lay the rind over it; it will take three hours; take it up, dry the fat from it, and glaze it; put sauce rober on the dish, and the pork on it i garnish with either paste or croutons. A HAM BRAISED. Put the ham into warm water to soak the day before it is w r anted to be dressed; 86 THE IMPERIAL AND put it on to boil in cold water; let it boil about twenty minutes; take it up, take off the rind, and trim it; put it into a good brown braise, and a pint of sherry in the braise; put it on a slow stove, (the braising pan should be covered down very close) and boil as gently as possible for four hours, more or less, according to the size of the ham; when done, take it up, trim and glaze it; put either spinage, greens, beans, or coulis, according to the time of the year. A LEG OF PORK A LA BOlSSEAU. A leg of pork for this purpose should be in salt about four days, and put in boiling water to boil for about ten minutes; then take it up and skin it; spit it, and put it to the fire; it will take two hours to roast; about half an hour before it is taken up shake on plenty of bread crumbs, then baste it with butter, put on more bread crumbs, and repeat basting, and put in bread crumbs until it looks of a nice brown; take it up, and put under it a little 7 V ROYAL COOK. 87 sage, an onion chopped very fine, and boiled in good gravy; send ample sauce in ‘ a boat. A PIG AU PERE DUILLET. Cut off the head, and divide the body into quarters; lard them with bacon, and season them well with pepper, salt, nutmegs, cloves, and mace; put a lair of fat bacon at the bottom of a stewpan, lay the head in the middle, and the quarters round it; then put in a bay leaf, an onion, a shred, a lemon, some carrots, parsley, and the liver, and cover it again with bacon; put in a quart of second stock; stew it for an hour, then take it up, put your pig into a stewpan, pour in a bottle of white wine, cover it close, and let it stew very gently an hour; in the meantime, while it is stewing in the wine, take the first gravy that it w r as stewed in, skim off the fat, and strain it; then take a sweetbread cut into five or six pieces, some truffles, morels, and mushrooms, and stew all together till they are done; thicken it with the yolks of two I 88 THE IMPERIAL AND eggs, or a piece of butter rolled in flour; when your pig” is done, take it out, and lay it in the dish; put the wine it was stewed in to the sauce, then pour it all over the pig: garnish with lemon. SICILIAN MANNER OF DRESSING LOIN OF PORK TO EAT LIKE WILD BOAR. Cut the loin of porjk as you would for chops; leave the end bones whole to keep it together, put chopped sage betwixt the cuts, and soak the meat in equal quantities of vinegar and water for ten or twelve day 5:; then put more sage, tie it up close, and bake it, with the skin downwards, in some of the vinegar and water; when done, serve it up with its own liquor skimmed, a little sugar, and a glass of red wine: it may also be eaten with currant jelly sauce; the skin, instead of being hard and crackling, becomes a fine rich brawny jelly.. ROYAL COOK. 89 BARBECUED PIG. Prepare a young pig as for roasting; make a force-meat of two anchovies, six sage leaves, and a liver, all chopped small; put them into a mortar, with the crumb of a roll, four ounces of butter, half a tea-spoonful of Cayenne pepper, and half a pint of red wine; beat it to a paste, put it in the pig’s belly, and sew it up; lay your pig down at a good distance before a brisk fire, singe it well, put some red wine into the dripping-pan, and baste it well all the time of roasting: when half done, put under the pig two rolls; and should the wine be too much reduced, add more: when your pig is nearly done, take the bread and sauce out of the dripping-pin, and put to the sauce an anchovy chopped small, a bundle of sweet herbs, and half a lemon; boil it a few minutes; take up your pig, strain your sauce, and pour it on boiling hot: garnish with barberries and slices of lemon, 90 THE IMPERIAL AND MADE DISHES OF FOWL AND OTHER POULTRY. A FOWL A LA DAUBE. Bone a large fowl without cutting the skin, and singe it; put in it a small piece of the prime of Westphalia ham (about the size of the breast of the fowl,) then fill it with a good force-meat, and braise it in a white braise; when done, take it up and dry it; then glaze it, and put mushrooms on the dish, and the fowl at the top: garnish either with croutons, or paste baked for that purpose. RAGOUT MELLE. Cocks’ combs, fat livers, lamb sweetbreads, poulets’ eggs, let all be blanched ROYAL COOK. 91 off: put the combs into a stewpan to boil for a quarter of an hour, with about half a pint of stock; let it do down to a glaze; then put the other part of the ragout, with a sufficient quantity of sauce tourney. TWO DUCKS A LA DAUBE. Bone two ducks, and fill them with force-meat; put them into a stewpan, with a little stock to set them; put them on a slow stove for about ten minutes; then add about a pint of good stock, the bones and giblets, half a pint of sherry, six or eight onions, a faggot, and a few blades of mace; cover the ducks with sheets of bacon, and put them on a slow stove; they w ill take about two hours; take them out of the braise; dry and glaze them; strain the braise, skim the fat off, and reduce it to a glaze; put coulis sufficient for the quantity of sauce that is wanting; put about tw r o dozen of olives that have been pared and scalded; put sauce on the dish, and the ducks on the sauce. 92 THE IMPERIAL AND N. 13. The olives should be pared as near the stone as possible, and without breaking 1: when boiled they will come to their shape. BOILED CHICKENS AND TARRAGON SAUCE. Tarragon sauce is made as follows: — pick the tarragon from the sauce, leaf by leaf; put it on to blanch in a little cold water;• when it boils, strain it off, put it into a small stewpan, with a little clear and pale coloured stock, and boil it down to a glaze; add beshemell and a few drops of tarrogon vinegar; boil the chickens about twenty minutes, put them in a dish, and pour the sauce over them. CHICKENS AND CELERY SAUCE. Boil the chickens about twenty minutes, and make the celery sauce as follows: cut the celery, after being properly ROYAL COOK. 93 trimmed, into small pieces; boil it in clear stock for a quarter of an hour; reduce the stock to a glaze, and add beshemell to the celery; take the chickens up, and dry them in a cloth; put them on the dish, and the sauce over them. A CURRIE OF RABBITS. Cut two rabbits up, the same as for a fricassee; fry them in a little clarified butter until they are of a light brown colour; put them into a stewpan, with a little stock; let them do very gently for about a quarter of an hour, then put a proper quantity of sauce tourney, and a small table spoonful of currie powder; raise a rim of rice round a dish, and put the rabbits in the middle. A CURRIE ANOTHER WAY. Cut up two chickens or rabbits, the same as for a fricassee; fry them in a little butter until they are of a light brown 94 THE IMPERIAL AND colour; put them into a stewpan, with a little stock; then chop three or four large onions very fine, and put them to the rabbits or chickens; the onions should be fried in butter; let them do very gently for about half an hour, then put a spoonful of currie powder, and a little Cayenne pepper; boil some India rice, put it on a sieve, and dry it crisp before the fire; then put the currie on a dish, and the rice on another dish. A FRICASEE OF CHICKENS. Cut up two chickens very neat; take the thigh bones from the legs, and put the chickens into a stewpan, with cold water, and put them on the fire to blanch; when they come to a boil, take them off the fire and put them into cold water; put the trimmings into a stewpan, with a little lean ham, two onions, (a few cloves stuck in the onions,) a faggot, and a few blades of mace; put them on the fire to boil for an hour, with about half a pint of water; then strain it off, and put it to the chickens, 7 ROYAL COOK. 95 with about two ounces of butter; let it simmer over the stove for about half an hour; put a bit of butter into a stewpan; when melted, put a little dour and stock from the chickens, and add as much cream as will make it of a good white: it is a custom with some to thicken it with a liaison; a liaison of three eggs will do; put a few drops of garlic vinegar, half a lemon squeezed, and a little sugar. FAT LIVERS IN CASES. Scald the livers for a few minutes, to take away any bitterness that might remain from the gall; lay them on a cloth to dry; then butter a tart-dish, put in the livers, and sprinkle them with pepper and salt; put them in the oven for ten minutes; have a proper case the size of the dish, put the liver and liquor in the case, and put the dish, with the case on it, in the oven for a few minutes. N. B. If they are too much done, they become hard. 96 THE IMPERIAL AND A CIVET OF HARE. Cut up a hare (that has not been roasted too dry) as neat as you can, by leaving as little bone as possible; put the trimmings into a stewpan, with four large onions, a faggot of thyme and parsley, a few blades of mace, a pint of good stock, and a pint of port wine; put them on a slow stove; let it boil very gently for two hours, and strain it off; put a bit of butter into a stewpan to melt, and add a little flour; stir it about, to mix it, and then put the liquor that was strained from the trimmings of the hare; let it boil for a few minutes, and strain it through a tammy; boil two dozen of button onions in stock, and put them to the civet; dish the hare first, put the sauce over it, and onions at the top. TWO DUCKS BRAISED WITH TURNIPS. Bone them and fill them with forcemeat; put the bones, and any other poultry trimmings, into a stewpan; lay the ItOYAT. COOK 97 ducks on the bones, &c.; put a few onions, a faggot, a few blades of mace, a pint of stock, and a little sherry wine; cover the ducks with sheets of bacon and paper; cover them down close, and put them on 3. slow stove for two hours: when they are done, take them up, strain the braise, skim the fat from it, and reduce it to a glaze; scoop as many turnips as are requisite, and fry them in clarified butter; put a little coulis to the glaze of the ducks, and the turnips in the coulis: give them a boil: put the turnips on the dish first, then the ducks, first glazing them. A FRICANDEAU OF FOWL AND ENDIVE. Prepare a fowl as in page 90; lard it, and lay the bottom of the stewpan with sheets of bacon; then lay the bones of the fowl, and any other trimmings, and the fowl upon them; put in about a pint of second stock, a few bay leaves, onions, and a faggot; cover the fowl with sheets of bacon, and then with white paper; set it F 98 THE IMPERIAL AND on a stove, and let it do very gently; the slower these kind of things do the better; put a little fire on the top of the stewpan; it should simmer for about an hour and a half; the liquor should not come near the bacon; when done, take it up, and put it in the oven for a few minutes, to raise the larding, before it is glazed; put the endive on the dish first, and the fowl on it: garnish with croutons and carrot roses, or what you think proper. N. B. All lardings should be put in an oven for a few minutes before they are glazed. A SALMIE OF WILD DUCKS. Cut up two wild ducks that have been dressed and left from the day before; put the legs, wings, and breasts, cut in slices, into a stewpan, and set them by until wanted; put the trimmings into another stewpan, with a few shalots, a pint of good stock, and half a pint of red wine; set it on a stove, and let it boil for half an hour; then strain is off; put a bit of butter into ROYAL COOK. 99 a stewpan; when melted, put a little flour and the liquor that has been strained from the bones; give it a boil, and strain it through a tammy sieve; put it into a stewpan, give it a boil, squeeze a Seville orange in it, and add a little Cayenne pepper; then pour it over the duck, and put it by the side of the stove; do not let it boil, else it will be hard; the sauce should not be quite so thick as sauces are in general. A BLANQUET OF POULARDE, WITH MUSHROOMS. CtJT the breast of one or two fowls (that have been roasted or boiled) into collops; put all the other parts into a stewpan, with some lean ham, a few shalots, a faggot, some trimmings of mushrooms, and about a pint of pale coloured stock; let it boil very slowly for half an hour, then strain it off; put a bit of butter into a stewpan, about half a pottle of mushrooms cut into thin slices, a table-spoonful of stock, and the juice of half a lemon (to keep the mushrooms white); let them do F 2 100 THE IMPERIAL AND gently for about ten minutes: put in a little flour, and shake it about the stewpan; (do not stir it with a spoon, for fear of breaking the mushrooms;) then add the stock that the bones of the fowls were boiled in, with the addition of a little cream; let it boil about three minutes, then put it to the fowl, add a few drops of garlic vinegar, and a little pounded sugar; garnish with croutons or with paste. A SOUTIES OF PHEASANTS AND TRUFFLES. Cut the breast of two pheasants into thin collops: flat them, and lay them on a souties-pan that has been buttered; put in a few chopped truffles (if to be had), and a few spoon fids of sherry; set them on the stove for a few minutes. At dishing them, all souties should be left until the last minute. The sauce is made as follows: — put about, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, cut fine, into a stewpan, with the bones of the pheasants; a few shalots, a 110YAL COOK. 101 little parsley, a. blade or two of mace, and a pint of stock; set the stewpan on the stove to boil very slowly for an hour, then strain it off; put a bit of butter into a stewpan; when melted, put flour to thickenit; stir it a few minutes over the fire, and then put in the liquor from the pheasants’ bones; let it boil a few minutes, and strain it through a tammy; put a few sliced truffles in it, a little lemonjuice, and a dust of sugar; put the souties on the dish, and the sauce over it: garnish with paste. TWO WOODCOCKS A LA TARTAR. Cut up two woodcocks that have been roasted; put the wings, breast, and legs, into a stewpan; the back and inside into another, with six shalots, half a pint of red wine, half a pint of stock, and a couple of bay leaves; (if there are any odd bits of snipe, put them in;) set the stewpan on the fire to boil very slow for half an hour, and then strain it off; put a small bit of butter into a stewpan; when melted, put a J02 THE IMPERIAL AND little flour, (the sauce should be rather thinner than coulis,) and the liquor the bones of the woodcocks were boiled in; let it boil for a few minutes, keep stirring it all the while, then take it from the fire and squeeze a Seville orange in; put a little Cayenne pepper, and salt, if wanted; then put the sauce to the woodcock, and put it on the side of a stove for a few minutes; be careful that ft does not boil: garnish with paste and croutons. SALMIE OF WOODCOCKS. Cut up the woodcocks; put the legs, wings, and breast, into a stewpan; put the trimmings into another stewpan, with a little stock, a few shalots, and about a gill of port wine; set the stewpan on the fire to boil slowly for half an hour, then strain it through a tammy sieve into the stewpan that has the woodcocks in it; do not put it on the fire; make the dish quite hot before you put the salmie on; squeeze an orange in before you put it on the dish. ItOYAL COOK. 103 PIGEONS A LA CRAPAUDINE, AND PIQUANT SAUCE. Split the pigeons at the belly, and turn the breast over; put four ounces of butter into a stewpan with chopped shalots, parsley, thyme, mushrooms, pepper, and salt; set the stewpan on the fire to melt the butter; put the pigeons on the dish, but not too near each other; pour the butter over the pigeons, and when the butter begins to get cold, roll the pigeons in bread crumbs, and put them in a souties-pan that has been buttered with clarified butter; do not turn them till the under- side is brown; when of a nice brown, lay them on a cloth to soak the butter from them: lay them round a dish, and the sauce in the middle. N. B. Six pigeons will make a dish; the breast-bone should be taken out, and the leg and thigh boned; the pinions cut off, the wing bone taken out, and the pigeons flatted with a flatter; they may be broiled on the gridiron over a clear stove. 104 THE IMPERIAL AXI) COMPOTE OF PIGEONS WITH TRUFFLES. Draw the legs of four pigeons in the same manner as chickens for boiling, singe them, and fill them with force-meat; put a small raw truffle in each pigeon; put the necks and gizzards into a stewpan, and any other giblets that are at hand, about a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a few onions, a few blades of mace, a little parsley, two or three bay leaves, half a pint of sherry, and a pint of stock; wrap the pigeons in sheets of bacon, put them in the stewpan, and set the stewpan over a slow fire to do very gently for an hour; then strain the liquor; skim the fat very clean from it, and put a little butter into a stewpan to melt; when melted, put as much flour as will make it of a proper thickness; stir it for a few minutes over the fire before the liquor is put in; then put the liquor in , keep stirring it all the while; let it boil for a few minutes; slice a few truffles, and put them in the sauce; take the pigeons up, lay them on a cloth to dry; then put them on the dish, with the truffles and sauce over ROYAL COOK. 105 them; a few fat livers and force-meat balls may be added. N. B. Squeeze half a lemon; season with pepper and salt, &c.; FOWL A LA DAUBE, ORNAMENTED AND GARNISHED WITH ASPIC. Bone a fowl, and fill it with farce; lay the bottom of a stewpan with fat ham, or bacon, and half a pint af stock; put the fowl in, and cover it with bacon and paper; let it do very gently for two hours; then set it to cool in the liquor and fat; when cold, ornament it with different coloured fat, agreeably to your own taste; put chopped aspic round the edge of the dish, and on the top part of the fowl. The aspic is made as follows: — lay the bottom of the soup-pot with lean ham, cut up knuckle of veal, two old fowls, the bones and giblets of the fowl that was daubed, and any other trimmings that are at hand; the shanks that are cut from shoulders or legs of mutton which are going to be dressed are F 5 106 THE IMPERIAL AND very useful articles; put in a dozen of onions, a small quantity of parsley, a little mace, and two or three heads of celery; put four quarts of second stock, and set it on a stove to boil; when it comes to a boil, take the pot off, and put it to the side to boil very slow for four or five hours; it is not requisite to skim it, as it does not matter about its being clear; when it has boiled a sufficient time, strain it off, and let it stand until next morning; then take the fat very clean from the stock, put a pint of it into a stewpan, half a pound of lean ham cut very small, about twelve shalots, one small clove of garlic, a few tarragon leaves, and three or four bay leaves; set the stewpan to boil for about half an hour; then put all the stock into it, and strain what the shalots, &c.; were boiled in, and put it to the other; add a little tarragon vinegar, and set it on a stove to melt; when melted, break in twelve eggs and shells; whisk all up together; set it on a brisk stove; keep whisking it until it boils; let it boil for a few minutes; then run it through a jelly bag, and clear it as you would calves’ feet jelly. ROYAL COOK. 107 N. B. If the stock is not strong’ enough, add a little isinglas: twelve eggs will clear two quarts of aspic. CAPILOTED FOWL. This is made from the remainder of roasted fowls which have been left; cut the fowls up in neat pieces, the same as for a fricassee; put the trimmings into a stewpan, with a few shalots, a faggot, a blade or two of mace, about a quarter of a pound of lean ham, and a pint of stock; let it boil slowly for half an hour; strain it off, and put a bit of butter into a stewpan; when melted, put as much flour as will dry up the butter, and stir it over the fire; then put the liquor which the bones of the fowls were boiled in; set the stewpan on the fire to boil for a few minutes, strain it through a tammy sieve, and put it to the fowls; squeeze a little lemon-juice, put a little sugar, pepper, and salt; lay the fowl neatly on the dish, and garnish with croutons. N. B. The sauce should not boil after the fat is put to it. 103 THE IMPERIAL AND FILLETS OF HARE LARDED, AND A PUREE OF HARE UNDER THEM. The fillets of hare are cut the same as fillets of rabbits; the remaining part of the hare put into a stew pan, with a few shalots, about a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a faggot, a few blades of mace, half a pint of port wine, and hall’ a pint of good stock; put the stewpan on a stove to boil very slowly for two hours, then strain the liquor from the hare, and pick all the meat off the bones; put the meat to the liquor and the lean ham; put it into a tammy, rub it through, and put it into a stewpan to keep hot; put the puree on the dish, and the fillets on the puree. PIGEONS BRAISED, AND ASPARAGUS PEAS. They should be tame pigeons, the legs drawn in, and as much skin as possible left on the neck; they should be put on to blanch in cold water; when they come to ROYAL COOK. 109 a boil, take them up, and wash them in several waters; put sliced lemon over the breast, and sheets of bacon over that; tie it on with fine twine; put them in a white braise; about twenty minutes will do them; (for the asparagus peas, see page 77); strain the braise that the pigeons were done in, skim the fat very clean from it, and put the bottom on the fire to boil very fast; when reduced to a glaze, put it to the asparagus peas; dish the pigeons first, and put the sauce over them: garnish with paste. QUENELS OF FOWL. Scrape the white meat off one large fowl, or two small ones; scrape an equal quantity of fat ham, and half as much lean; put it into a mortar, with chopped parsley, shalot, and mushrooms; pound all together; then put in two yolks of eggs, beat the w hites upon a plate with a knife, mix the yolks with the fowl, &c.; before the whites are put in; then put in the whites, and mix all well; add a little pepper and salt; take it out of the mortar, and put 110 THE IMPERIAL AND about a pint of good stock on a quick stove; when it boils, put some of the quenel into a large spoon; have a tea-spoon, and put as much as it will hold into the stock until it is all in; take it up with a slice the same as you would a poached egg; the quenel should be about the size of the yolk of an egg; pour white Italian sauce over them. FOUR PIGEONS LARDED, AND A RAGOUT OF COCKS’ COMBS. Draw in the legs of four large pigeons, fill them with farce, and then lard them; lay sheets of bacon in the bottom of a stewpan; put a pint of stock in it, four onions, a little parsley, a few bay leaves, and a blade or two of mace; put the pigeons in, cover them over with sheets of bacon, and set them on a stove to simmer for half an hour; put some lighted charcoal on the cover of the stewpan; when the pigeons are done, finish them the same as other lardings; put the ragout on a dish, and the pigeons on it: garnish with paste. ItOYAL COOK, 111 N. B. Strain the braise, skim the fat from it, and put the bottom to the ragout. GROUSE BRAISED, AND CABBAGE. Draw the legs of the grouse in, the same as chickens for boiling; lay the bottom of the stewpan with fat bacon, put in the grouse and twelve shalots, a blade or two of mace, two or three bay leaves, and a little parsley; blanch off three white cabbages, cut them in quarters, and let them boil until three parts done, then put them in cold water to cool; when cold, squeeze them very dry with your hand, then press them with a cloth, tie them up with twine, and put them in the stewpan, with the grouse, to imbibe the flavour of them; the grouse will take one hour to braise over a very slow stove; when they are done, strain off the liquor, and skim the fat from them; put a bit of butter into a stewpan, and set it on the fire to melt; when melted, put a little flour, and stir it over the fire a few minutes; then put in the 112 THE IMPERIAL AND liquor the grouse were braised in; let it boil for a few minutes; keep stirring it while it is on the fire, to hinder it from sticking to the bottom; if there should not be sauce enough, add a little coulis; put the grouse on the dishes, three on each dish, and four bundles of cabbage on each dish; (the grouse and cabbage should be laid on a clean cloth, to soak the lat from them;) put the sauce over the grouse and cabbage. DAUBED FOWLS. Bone two large fowls: put a piece of the prime part of ham that has been braised in the fowls, and fill them with farce; if truffles are to be had, put six or eight in each fowl that has not been braised — peel them; put a few sheets of bacon at the bottom of a stewpan, and the bones of the fowls, or any other giblets or trimmings that you may have in hand; put a quart of stock, a few onions, a faggot, three bay leaves, and two or three blades of mace; then put in the fowls, and ItOYAL COOK. 113 cover them with bacon and paper; set them on a slow stove to do very gently for two hours, then strain the liquor from the fowls, and skim the fat very clean from the liquor; put about an ounce of butter into a stewpan, and set it on the fire to melt; when melted, put as much flour as will dry it up, set it on the fire, and keep stirring it for a minute or two; then put the liquor that the fowls were braised in, and about half a pint of good cream that has boiled; set the stewpan on the fire, and keep stirring it until it boils; let it boil for a few minutes, then strain it through a tammy; the sauce should be about the thickness of beshemell; take the fowls up, and put them on a cloth to soak the fat; then put them on the dishes; put the sauce over the fowls, but not all at once; it should be put over at three different times; the last time should be just before they are taken out of the kitchen: garnish with paste. N. B. If not cut, they will do for pies or ornamenting. 114 THE IMPERIAL AND A JUGGED HARE. Bone a hare, and put the bones into a soup-pot, with lean ham, six or eight large onions, a small quantity of parsley, a little mace, one pint of stock, and a pint of port wine; put the pot on the fire to boil for two hours,, and strain it off; put the hare on the fire to blanch, with a little cold water; when it comes to a boil, take and wash it in several waters, then cut the legs into two pieces, the long way; cut the shoulder part from the back; then split the hack dow n, and cut each half into three pieces; then put it into a small soup-pot, and the liquor which the bones were stewed in; cut one pound of ham, fat and lean, into neat pieces, and put them to the hare; cover the meat over with paper, and also the lid of the pot; put the pot into a stewpan of water, and let the water come above three parts up the pot; put it on to boil; it should boil for three hours, or until the hare is quite tender; (when the water boils away that is in the stewpan put more boiling water;) when done, put it on the ROYAL COOK. 115 dish, the hare in the middle, and the ham round the sides; skim the liquor very clean from the fat, and put it to the hare. There may be a few button onions sent up on the hare. It should be sent up in a deep dish. N. B. It will make either a middle or a flank dish, in large dinners. PARTRIDGES AND PHEASANTS, PRESERVED FOR ENTRES AND PIES, FOR DINNERS AND LARGE ENTERTAINMENTS, WHEN GAME • IS OUT OF SEASON. Those for pies should be boned and filled with farce, and two raw truffles put in them; the bones of the partridges or pheasants to be put in a stewpan, with two old fowls, a knuckle of veal, about three pounds of lean ham cut in slices, half a pound of shalots, a faggot of sweet herbs, a few blades of mace, a pint of good stock, and a pint of sherry; then cover the bones, &c.; with sheets of bacon, put the partridges on the bacon, and cover them over with bacon and a sheet of paper cut to the size 116 THE IMPERIAL A1S V T) of the stewpan, by way of keeping in all the steam; put the stewpan over a slow stove to simmer very gently until the partridges are tender, but not so as to break; be careful that the liquid does not come to the partridges, as they should be done by the steam: when they are done, take them out, and put them in bacon dishes, or what you intend to put them by in; then fill the stewpan up with the best stock, and let it boil very gently for three or four hours; then strain it off, skim the fat from it, and boil it down to a glaze, (but not quite so low as for glazing;) pour the glaze while hot over the partridges, then clarify the fat that you skimmed off the liquid, and the fat from any other braise that may be at hand; pour it over the partridges while hot; the fat should be at least one inch deep, and the birds entirely covered. Pheasants are done in the same manner. Those which are intended to be served up hot, for the first course, either with cabbage or truffles, should not be boned, but filled with farce, and truffles put in them; the legs should be drawn in the same as “ROYAI-. COOK. 117 chickens for boiling. Those which are intended for a cold pie should be done as follows: — raise a pie according to the number of the birds you intend to put in; lay a thick layer of good farce at the bottom; then take the fat off the partridges, and put them in the pie, (but not the glaze;) cover them with farce and thin sheets of bacon, or the fat of a cutting ham, which is what is generally used for all things that require to be covered with fat; as, in the first place, it generally has a finer flavour than bacon; and, in the next, the fat of ham cannot be used in any other way; therefore it would be wasted, if not so used: it answers two good purposes; which are, by giving a better flavour, and being economical: cover the pie in, ornament it, put it into a slow oven, and let it stay until it has baked about half an hour; then take it out, make the glaze hot that the partridges are taken from, and put a little jrood stock to it, to weaken it; and, when o hot, put into the pie about one pound of truffles (when they can be had) with six partridges, as they greatly improve the 1 118 THE IMPEltlAL AND flavour of the pie. The same rule should be followed in making a pheasant pie; either put aspic over it, or send some in a butter-boat, which is the best way, if the pie is for a side-table, and to be used at dinner time. For ball suppers, put aspic over the birds. The partridges or pheasants that are intended for entres, should be warmed by the side of a slow stove; the sauce to be made from part of the glaze that belongs to the birds, and good stock; or by putting some of the glaze into coulis; braise the cabbage in a brown braise, or with a ham, or any tiling else of that kind. POTTED HARE. Bone a hare and cut it up in small pieces; cut as much fat and lean ham as there is hare; put it into a stewpan, with a bit of butter, a little stock, pepper, salt, and a little fine spice; put it on a slowstove, to draw down, for an hour; then put a pint of port wine, and let it boil very 6 ROYAL COOK. 119 slow till all the liquor is reduced to a glaze; put it into a mortar, and pound it till very fine; taste it, that you may know if it wants any more seasoning; put it into potting pots, pour clarified butter over it, and put it into a slow oven for half an hour; then take it out, put it to cool, and fill it up with clarified butter; either send it up in the pot, or turn it out, and glaze it with aspic. CHICKEN PANADO. Boil a chicken in a little very good and clear stock until quite tender; when done, take it up, and take the skin off the breast and legs; mince the breast and legs very fine, then pound it in a mortar; put the bones in the liquor the chickens were boiled in; put them on the stove to boil while the chicken is pounding; when pounded very fine, put it in a bason, and a little of the stock which the chicken was boiled in; mix it up with a spoon; when well mixed, rub it through a tammy sieve; while that is doing, reduce the remainder 120 THE IMPERIAL AND of the liquid which the chicken w r as boiled in nearly to a glaze; w hen the chicken is rubbed through the sieve, put it into a stewpan that has the liquid belonging to it; put it by the side of a stove to make hot, but be careful that it does not boil; season it w ith a little salt, so as to make it palatable. MUTTON PANADO. Mince either the fillet of the inside of a chine, of mutton when roasted, or .the lean part of a neck or loin; then pound it in a mortar, mix it up with a spoon, and rub it through a sieve; when done, put it in a stewpan to warm very gently; be careful that it does not boil; season it w ith a very little salt. N. B. Beef or veal panado should be done the same way; it is not intended as a dish for the table, but for a person in ill health. ROYAL COOK. 121 SNIPE, OR WOODCOCKS, IN SURTOUT. Take some force-meat (made of veal,) as much beef suet, chopped and beat in a mortar, with an equal quantity of crumbs of bread; mix a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, some parsley, a few sweet herbs, and the yolk of an egg; lay some of this meat round a dish, and put the snipes in, being first drawn and half roasted: take care of the trail, chop it, and scatter it all over the dish: take some good gravy, according to the bigness of your surtout, some truffles and morels, a few mushrooms, a sweetbread cut into pieces, and the bottoms of artichokes cut small: let all stew together, shake them, and take the yolks of two or three eggs, beat them up with a spoonful or two of white wine, and stir all together one way: when it is thick, take it off, let it cool, and pour it into the surtout: put in the yolks of a few hard eggs here and there; season it with beaten mace, pepper, and salt, to your taste; cover it with the force-meat all over, then rub in the yolks of eggs, to colour it, and send it G 122 THE IMPERIAL AND to the oven: half an hour will do it sufficiently, which will be known by their appearing of a nice brown colour: when done, serve them up either with shrimp sauce or plain melted butter: garnish with red cabbage. DUCKS A LA FRANCOISE. Put two dozen of roasted chesnuts, peeled, into a pint of stock, with a few leaves of thyme, two small onions, a little whole pepper, and a bit of ginger; take a fine tame duck, lard it, and half roast it, then put it into the gravy; let it stew ten minutes, and add a quarter of a pint of red wine; when the duck is done, take it out, boil up the gravy to a proper thickness, skim it very clean from the fat, lay the duck in the dish, and pour the sauce over it: garnish with lemon. CHICKENS IN SAVORY JELLY. Roast two chickens, and boil some calves’ feet to a strong jelly; then take out llOYAI, COOK. 123 the feet, and skim off the fat; beat up the whites of three eggs, and mix them with half a pint of white wine vinegar, the juice of three lemons, a blade or two of mace, a few pepper-corns, and a little salt; put them to your jelly; when it has boiled five or six minutes, strain it through a jelly bag several times till it is very clear; then put a little in the bottom of a bowl large enough to hold your chickens; when they are cold and the jelly set, lay them in, with their breasts down; then fill your bowl quite full with the rest of your jelly, which you must take care to keep from setting, so that when you pour it into your bowl it will not break; let it stand all night, and the next day put your bason into warm water, pretty near the top; as soon as you find it loose in the bason, lay your dish over it, and turn it out whole. FLORENDINE HARE. Let your hare be a full grown one, and let it hang up four or five days before you G 2 124 THE IMPERIAL AND case it; let the ears remain on, but take out all the bones, except those of the head, which must be left entire; lay your hare on the table, and put into it the following force-meat: — take the crumb of a penny loaf, the liver shred fine, half a pound of fat bacon, scraped, a glass of red wine, an anchovy, tw r o eggs, a little winter savory, some sweet marjoram, and a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg: having put this into the belly, roll it up to the head, and fasten it with packthread, as you would a collar of veal; wrap it in a cloth, and boil it an hour and a half in a saucepan, covered, with two quarts of w ater: as soon as the liquor is reduced to about a quart, put in a pint of red wine, a spoonful of lemon-pickle, one of catsup, and the same of browning; then stir it till it is reduced to a pint, and thicken it with butter rolled in flour; lay round your hare a few morels, and four slices of force-meat boiled in the caul of a leg of veal: when you dish it up, draw the jawbones, and stick them in the sockets of the eyes; let the ears lay back, on the roll, and stick a sprig of myrtle in the mouth; ROYAL COOK. 125 strain your sauce over it, and garnish with barberries and parsley. CHICKENS CHIRINGR ATE. Flatten the breast-bones of your chickens with a rolling-pin, but be careful that you do not break the skin; strew some flour; then fry them, in butter, of a fine light brow n; dry all the fat out of the pan, but leave the chickens in; lay a pound of gravy beef, with the same quantity of veal cut in thin slices, over your chickens together with a little mace, two or three cloves, some W’hole pepper, an onion, a small faggot of sweet herbs, and a piece of carrot; then pour in a quart of boiling water, cover it close, and let it stew a quarter of an hour; then take out the chickens, and keep them hot; let the gravy boil till it is rich and good; then strain it off, and put it into your pan again, with half a pint of red wine and a fevv mushrooms; put in your chickens to warm, 126 THE IMPERIAL AND then take them up, lay them in your dish, and pour your sauce over them: garnish with lemon, and a few slices of cold boiled ham. A GOOSE MARINADE. Bone your goose, and stuff it with force-meat, made thus: — take ten or twelve sage leaves, two large onions, and two or three large sharp apples; chop them very fine, mix with them the crumb of a penny loaf, four ounces of beef marrow, two glasses of red wine, half a nutmeg, grated, pepper, salt, a little lemon-peel, shred small, and the yolks of four eggs: when you have stuffed your goose with this, sew it up, fry it of a light brown, and then put it into a deep stewpan, with two quarts of good stock; cover it close, and let it stew two hours; then take it out, put it into a dish, and keep it warm: skim the fat clean off from the sauce, and put into it a large spoonful of lemon-pickle, one of browning, one of red wine, an anchovy shred fine, a little beaten mace, with pepper audsalt to ROYAL COOK. 127 your taste; thicken it with flour and butter; dish up your goose, strain the sauce over it, and send it to table. MARINADED FOWL. Raise the skin from the breast-bone of a fowl with your finger; take a veal sweetbread, oysters, mushrooms, an anchovy, pepper, nutmeg, and lemon-peel; chop them small, and mix them with the yolk of an egg; stuff this between the skin and the flesh, but do not break the skin; put oysters in the body of the fowl, paper the breast, and roast it; make good gravy, and garnish with lemon. MACEDONIAN DUCKS. Take four artichoke bottoms, cut them into pieces, and put them into boiling water, with about a pint of garden beans, first scalded and brushed: boil all together till almost done, and then drain them: put 128 THE IMPERIAL AND the whole into a stewpan, with a good piece of butter, chopped mushrooms, a little winter savory, parsley, and shalots — all finely chopped; add a little flour, two spoonfuls of veal gravy, and a glass of white wine; simmer them slowly till the whole is well done, and the sauce reduced to a proper consistence; last of all, add a little coulis, the squeeze of a lemon, and a little pepper and salt: serve this ragout under two ducks quartered; and braise in a well-seasoned braise, with slices of veal and bacon. TO DRESS A WILD DUCK. Having half roasted your duck, lay it on a dish and carve it, but leave the joints hanging together; throw a little pepper and salt, and squeeze the juice of a lemon, over it: turn it on the breast, and press it hard with a plate; add to its own gravy two or three spoonfuls of good stock; cover it close with another dish over a stove ten minutes, then send it to table hot in the dish it was done in: garnish with lemon. ROYAL COOK. 129 TO RAGOUT A GOOSE. Having beat the breast down with a cleaver, press it down with your hand, skin it, and dip it into scalding water; take it out, and, as soon as it is cold, lard it with bacon, and season with pepper, salt, a little beaten mace, and flour it all over: take a pound of good beef suet, cut small, and put it into a deep stewpan; as soon as it is melted put in your goose, and let it brown on both sides; then put in a cpiart of best stock, an onion or two, a faggot of sweet herbs, some whole pepper, and a few cloves; cover it close, and let it stew slowly till it is tender: an hour will do it, if it be small; an hour and a half, if large. In the meantime, boil some turnips almost enough, and some carrots and onions quite enough; cut your turnips and carrots the same as for a haricot of mutton, and put them into a saucepan, with half a pint of good stock, a little pepper and salt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour; stew them all together a quarter of an hour: take the G 5 130 THE IMPERIAL AND goose and drain it well, then lay it in the dish, and pour the ragout over it. TO STEW GIBLETS. Having, cut the neck into four pieces, and the pinions into two, slice the gizzard, clean it well, and stew them in two quarts of second stock, with a faggot of sweet herbs, an anchovy, a few pepper-corns, three or four cloves, a spoonful of catsup, and an onion: as soon as the giblets are tender, put in two spoonfuls of white wine, thicken with flour and butter, squeeze in half a lemon, and send them to table. PIGEONS IN SAVORY JELLY. Having roasted your pigeons with the heads and feet on, put a sprig of myrtle in their bills; make the same kind of jelly as directed for chickens; and when it is set, lay in the pigeons with their breasts downwards, fill up your mould with jelly, and turn it out. ROYAL COOK. 131 PIGEONS A LA DAUBE. Take four or five pig-eons, cut off their feet and pinions, and split them through the breast; then take out the livers, and flat them with a cleaver: make a hot marinade of some scraped bacon, season it with mushrooms, or two green onions, pepper, salt, parsley, and a little nutmeg; fry all together for a few minutes, and let the pigeons be heated through in it, and let them remain till you put them upon your gridiron: take a thin slice of ham for each pigeon, and put them, with the ham, always at top; that is, when you turn your pigeons, turn your ham upon them: for your sauce, take a ladle of good stock, some sweet basil, a little parsley, a shalot minced very fine, and a few slices of mushrooms; boil all together a few minutes: dish the pigeons up with their breasts downwards, let your ham continue upon them, and pour your sauce over them, with the juice of an orange or lemon. 132 THE IMPERIAL AND PIGEONS A LA ROYALE. Take any number of pigeons you please that are of an equal size, put a peeled truffle in each, and give them a fry in butter; add chopped mushrooms, parsley, a slice of ham, and some pepper and salt; put them into a stewpan to braise, with a few slices of veal, first scalded, and the first seasoning over the pigeons; cover them with thin slices of bacon, and put a sheet of white paper over the whole; stop the pan close, and let them simmer over a slow fire till they are quite tender; take out the pigeons, and clean them from the fat; strain the braise, and boil it a moment, in order to skim it very clean: when it is ready, squeeze in a lemon, and pour the sauce over the pigeons. PIGEONS A LA PUMPJON. Roll out savory force-meat, like paste, into a buttered dish, and put a lair of very thin slices of bacon, squab pigeons, sliced sweetbread, asparagus tops, mushrooms. ROYAL COOK. 133 cocks’ combs, a palate boiled tender and cut into pieces, and the yolks of four eggs boiled hard: make another force-meat, and lay it over the hole like a pie crust: bake it; and, when done, turn it into a dish; pour in some rich gravy, and serve it up hot. TURKEY A LA DAUBE. Carefully bone a turkey, and do not spoil its appearance; stuff it with the following force-meat: — chop oysters, and mix them with crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, slialots, parsley, and butter; fill your turkey with this, sew it up, tie it in a cloth, and boil it white, but not too much; serve it up w r ith oyster sauce, or make a rich gravy of the bones, with a piece of veal, mutton, and bacon; season with salt, pepper, shalots, and a little mace; strain it off; and having before half boiled your turkey, stew it in this gravy half an hour; skim the gravy well, dish up your turkey in it, after you have thickened it with a few mushrooms stewed white, stewed 1 134 THE IMPERIAL AND palates, force-meat balls, sweetbreads, or fried oysters, and pieces of lemon; dish it with the breast upwards; you may add morels and truffles to the sauce. LARKS A LA FRANCOISE. Truss them with legs across, and put a sage leaf over the breast; put them on a thin skewer; and between every lark place a bit of thin lawn; tie the skewer to a spit, and roast them before a brisk fire; baste with butter, and strew over crumbs of bread; mix it . witli flour; fry some crumbs of a fine brown, butter, lay the larks round a dish, and the crumbs in the middle. SNIPES, WITH PURSLAIN LEAVES. Draw, and make a force-meat for the inside of your snipes, but preserve your ropes for the sauce; spit them across upon a lark spit, cover with bacon and paper, and roast them gently. For sauce, take some purslain leaves or parsley, blanch ROYAL COOK 135 them well in water, put them in a ladleful of coulis and gravy, a bit of shalot, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and parsley; stew them gently for half an hour; have the ropes ready blanched, and put in; dish up your snipes upon thin slices of bread, fried, squeeze the juice of an orange into your sauce, and serve them up. RABITS SURPRISED. Skewer and stuff two young rabbits as for roasting; roast them, and take the meat from the bones, which must be left whole; chop the meat fine with shred parsley, lemon-peel, an ounce of beef marrow, a spoonful of cream, and a little salt; beat the yolks of two eggs, boiled hard, with a small piece of butter, in a mortar; mix all together, and stew it five minutes; lay it on the rabbits when the meat is off, and put it down close and even, to make them appear whole; then, with a salamander, brown them all over: pour a good gravy, made as thick as cream, into the 7 136 THE IMPERIAL AND dish, and stick myrtle in their mouths; serve them up with the livers boiled and frothed. RABBITS EN GALLENTINE. Bone and flatten two young rabbits; put some force-meat upon them, slips of lean ham, breast of fowl, and omelets of eggs, white and yellow, the same as for garnishing; roll tight, and sew them up neatly; lard the top part with slips of fat bacon; blanch and braise them: glaze the larding, put good coulis under them, and serve them hot. RABITS EN MATELOT. Prepare two rabbits as for a fricassee; put them, with as many pieces of bacon as there are of rabbit, into a stewpan, with half a pint of stock, two dozen of small onions, and half a pottle of mushrooms; cover with paper, and set it on a stove to simmer for an hour; then take the rabbit, &c.; and lay it on the dish, skim off the fat, ROYAL COOK. 137 and reduce the liquor nearly to a glaze; put coulis to it, give it a boil, take it from the fire, and squeeze half a lemon; add Cayenne pepper and a little sugar; pour it over the rabbit, and garnish with paste. FISH MADE DISHES. SAUMON A LA BRAZE. Slit a large eel open; take out the bone and the meat quite clean from it; chop it fine, with two anchovies, some lemon-peel cut fine, a little pepper, and grated nutmeg, some parsley cut small, and the yolk of an egg boiled hard: mix them all together, and roll them up in a piece of butter; then take a large piece of fine salmon, or a salmon-trout, and put this forcemeat into the belly of the fish; sew it up and lay it on an oval stewpan that will just hold it; then put half a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan, and when it is 138 TIIE IMPERIAL AND melted, shake in a little flour; stir it till it is a little brown, and then put to it a pint of fish broth and a pint of Madeira; season it with pepper, salt, mace, and cloves, and put in an onion and a bunch of sweet herbs: stir it all together, and put it to the fish; cover it very close, and let it stew: when the fish is almost done, put in some fresh and pickled mushrooms, truffles, or morels cut in pieces, and let them stew till the fish is quite done; take lip the salmon carefully, lay it on a dish, and put the sauce over it. SALMON WITH SWEET HERBS. Mix a piece of butter with some chopped parsley, shalots, sweet herbs, mushrooms, pepper, and salt: put some of this in the bottom of the dish you intend to send to table, then some thin slices of salmon upon it, and the remainder of the butter and herbs upon the salmon: strew it over with bread crumbs, then baste it with butter, and bake it in the oven: when ROYAL COOK. 139 it is enough, drain the fat from it, and serve it up with a clear relishing sauce. SOLES A LA FRANCOISE. Skin and clean a pair of soles, and put them into an earthen dish, with a quail; of water and half a pint of vinegar; let them lie two hours, then take them out, and dry them with a cloth; put them into a stewpan, with a pint of white wine, a quarter of a pint of water, a little sweet marjoram, winter savory, and an onion stuck with four cloves; put in the soles, sprinkle in a very little bay salt, cover them close, and let them simmer very gently till they are done; then take them out, and lay them in a warm dish before the tire; strain the liquor, put into it a piece of butter rolled in flour, and let it boil till of a proper thickness; lay the soles in a dish, and pour the sauce over them: in the same manner you may dress a small turbot, or any flat fish. 140 THE IMPERIAL AND FILLETS OF SALMON, WITH CAPERS. Cut six thin slices of salmon, flat them gently, and season them with pepper and salt; (first brush them over with egg;) roll them up, and put them into a stewpan that will just hold them; put about half a pint of stock, cover them with bacon, and set them on a stove for half an hour: when done, lap them round a dish; put a little coulis into a stewpan with the liquor the salmon was done in, a few capers chopped, a little anchovy essence, a glass of Madeira, and squeeze half a lemon into it, with a little sugar. If for meagre, use a fish stock. FILLET OF SOLE A L’lTALIENNE. Fillet a pair of soles; scrape two of the fillets, and as much fat bacon; put it into the mortar, with a little parsley and shalots, ail chopped very fine; rub it about the mortar a few minutes; put in half the crumb of a French roll that has been soaked in cream; mix them together; then ROYAL COOK. 141 beat up the white of an egg, and put it in the mortar, with a little pepper and salt, and two anchovies, washed, boned, and chopped very fine; take it all out of the mortar; flat the fillets of soles, brush them over with egg, then spread the farce on, and roll them up; put them into a tart pan, (first covering the bottom with bacon;) add a few spoonfuls of stock; cover the fillets with bacon; put them in a slow oven for half an hour, then dish them, and pour white Italian sauce over them. If for meagre, leave the bacon out. SOUTIES OF SOLE, WITH SAUCE A LA REINE. Bone a pair of soles, and cut each fillet in three; butter a souties-pan, and sprinkle it with pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and mushrooms; lay the soles on, and sprinkle them over; set them on a slow stove; a very few minutes will do them; dish them round the dish and pour the sauce over them j scrape the herbs from 142 THE IMPERIAL AND the pan, and put them to the sauce; squeeze a lemon, and add a few drops of shalot vinegar. SOUTIES OF FISH. Fillet two haddocks, and cut them in collops; butter a souties-pan, sprinkle it with pepper and salt, flat the collops of fish, and put them on the souties-pan; set them over a stove for about three minutes, turn them, and put them on a dish; put the liquor that comes from the fish into the stewpan, and some beshemell, a few drops of the essence of anchovy, a few drops of garlic vinegar, a little lemon-juice, and a dust of sugar; put the sauce over the souties, and garnish with paste or croutons. SEMELS OF TURTLES. Cut the lean flesh of the turtle into round pieces about the size and thickness of a crown-piece; put about a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan, with ROYAL COOK. 143 pepper and salt, chopped mushrooms, parsley, knotted and sweet marjoram, and a very little basil; set the stewpan on a stove to melt the butter, then let it get three parts cold, and put some clarified butter in a souties-pan; dip the turtle first in the butter and herbs, and then in bread crumbs; put it on the souties-pan, and then on the stove, to finish: . dish them round the dish, and the sauce in the middle. A SOUTIES OF LIVER OF TURTLE. Butter a souties-pan, sprinkle it with fine herbs, chopped truffles, and put a glass of Madeira wine on it; cut the liver in slices, and lay them on the souties-pan; sprinkle them with pepper and salt, turn them, and the liver will do in a very short time; put it round the dish; put the kidney and hearts in the middle, and piquant sauce over them: scrape the herbs from the souties-pan into the sauce. 144 THE IMPERIAL AND MATELOT OF TENCH. Scale and clean the tench, and put them into a stewpan, with a pint of stock, a pint of port wine, two dozen of button onions, half a pottle of mushrooms, and a faggot, with a few blades of mace tied up in it; set it on the stove to stew for half an hour; then put about one ounce of butter into a stewpan, with chopped parsley, shalot, three or four anchovies, and a little stock; set the stewpan on the fire to boil very slowly for a few minutes; add a little flour, and then the liquor from the tench; put it on the fire to boil, and keep stirring it all the time; then rub it through a tammy sieve, and put it to the tench, with about two dozen of oysters and liquor; (the oysters should be blanched first;) squeeze in half a lemon, and garnish with croutons. FILLETS OF WHITING. Put the fillets into boiling water for about five minutes; then take them up, put them into a dish, and put white Ita ROYAL COOK. ’ 145 lian sauce over them: garnish with paste or croutons. A DRESSED CRAB, HOT OR COLD. Pick a crab, and put the fish into a stewpan, with a bit of butter, a little anchovy essence, mustard, oil, vinegar, a little elder vinegar, and a few bread crumbs: mix it well: if for hot, put it over the stove, and return it into the shell; put bread crumbs over it, and a little clarified butter dropped on with a paste brush; put it in the oven, and brown it with a salamander: if for cold, put no bread crumbs over it: garnish it with the small claws, made into a ring, when only pickled: put the fish that is on one side into the shell, and what is in the claws of the other; garnish with pickled parsley round the shell, and the small claws round the dish. DRESSED LOBSTER, HOT OR COLD. Take the fish from the tails and claws as whole as possible; the tail should be 146 THE IMPERIAL AND split: lay it on a dish. If for cold, make the sauce as follows: — bruise the yolk of two boiled eggs with the back of a spoon; put a few drops of water to them, as it will help to soften the eggs; when they are rubbed quite fine, put a little mustard, oil, and vinegar, and a little anchovy essence, a little pepper, and a small quantity of elder vinegar; put it over the lobster: garnish with parsley. If for hot, put the lobster into a stewpan, with a little Italian sauce, and a little anchovy essence; dish it, and garnish with croutons. A VQLEVENT OF EELS. Bone an eel and flat it; cut it in pieces of about an inch long, and put it on to blanch in cold water; when it comes to a boil, take it off the fire; put the eel in cold water, and wash it very clean; scrape the fat off; then put it in a stewpan, with a little stock, and set it on a stove to simmer very slow for a quarter of an hour, until the stock is quite reduced, (but not ROYAL COOK. 147 for the eel to stick to the bottom;) put a little beshemell to it; put in about six yolks of eggs, boiled hard, and about a dozen button onions, nicely boiled; put a little anchovy essence, squeeze a little lemon-juice, and fill the volevent; first put it on a napkin, and then on a dish. If for meagre, use meagre stock. FILLET OF STURGEON, AND SAUCE ROYAL. Take the skin off a piece of a sturgeon of a pound or more; cut it in long slices, (the same as you would salmon for rolling;) flat them, and make a farce with a part of the sturgeon; scrape fat bacon, sweet herbs, a roll soaked in cream, and the white of an egg beat up to a froth; mix all together in a mortar, the egg last; season with pepper and salt, and put a very little bit of garlic to the farce; spread the farce on the sturgeon, roll it up, and finish it the same as fillets of sole; put the sauce on the dish, and then the sturgeon. If for meagre, do II 2 148 THE IMPERIAL AND not use bacon; make the sauce with fish stock. MORUE A LA CREME. Salt a slice of crimpt cod one day, and boil it the next; and, while hot, break it in flakes; put about half an ounce of butter into a stewpan, with a chopped shalot, parsley, and a spoonful of stock; let it boil for a minute or two, then put a little flour, as much as will make it of a proper thickness; then put a little stock; (if for meagre, cream;) give it a boil for a few minutes, put a little anchovy essence, squeeze a little lemon-juice, and a dust of sugar; put the fish in the sauce; let it stand to get hot by the side of a stove, but do not let it boil; put it as nearly in the middle of a dish as possible: garnish with paste and croutons. N. B. Crimpt cod that has been left the day before will do very well for this. ROYAL COOK. 149 ATLETS OF OYSTERS. Blanch the oysters and beard them; put them on a skewer made for that purpose; do them over with egg, sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them, and then put bread crumbs over; do the oysters twice over with egg and bread crumbs, drop some clarified butter over them with a paste brush, and broil them on a slow fire; the gridiron should be brushed over with oiled butter, that the oysters may not stick to the bars: send the oysters on the skewers to table. FISH PIE, WITH TENCH AND EELS, AND HARD EGGS. Clean a brace of tench, and skin two eels; bone the tench and eels, and cut the eels in pieces of two inches long; leave the sides of the tench whole; put the bones of the tench and eels into a stewpan, with a few onions, a little parsley, a few blades of mace, half a dozen anchovies, and a pint of stock; (if for meagre, put water;) set the 150 THE IMPERIAL AND stewpan on to boil very slowly for an hour, then strain it off, skim the fat from it, and put it to cool; then put the tench and eels into a dish; season it with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley; put a few whole mushrooms in, and six or eight hard yolks of eggs; add part of the liquor that the fish bones were boiled in; put puffed paste round the edge of the dish, and cover it in; about half an hour will bake it; the oven should be rather quick, otherwise the paste will not rise; when the paste begins to colour, put some liquor over it; when done, put the remainder of the liquor on the fire, to make hot, and pour it into the pie. N. B. The top of the pie should )e done over with egg, before it goes into an oven. OYSTERS FRIED IN BATTER. Blanch a pint of large oysters, beard them, and lay them on a cloth to soak the liquor from them. Make the batter as follows t—break four eggs into a bason, and beat them up with a spoon; then put about ROYAL COOK. 151 three or four spoonfuls of flour, and blend the eggs and flour well; then put half a pint of new milk, a little at a time; mix it all together, and put a little pepper and salt; then put in the oysters; put some lard (if not for meagre, clarified butter) into a stewpan, make it quite hot, and then put in the oysters, one at a time; take them up with a sharp pointed skewer, and fry them of a nice light brown; when done, take them up, and dish them on a napkin. VOLEVENT OF OYSTERS. Cut the vole vent out, and bake it; put a pint and a half of oysters on to blanch; when they come to boil, strain them off, and put them into cold water; then beard them; put a small piece of butter into a stewpan, and set it on the fire to melt; when melted, put as much flour as will dry it up; then pour in the oyster liquor, and stir it over the fire; when it comes to boil, put a little beshemell, (if it is not for meagre; if it is, put a little cream, and a few drops of 152 THE IMPERIAL AND essence of anchovy;) give it a boil up, then put in the oysters, and set the stewpan by the side of the fire, but mind that it does not boil; before you fill the volevent, squeeze a little lemon-juice, and put a little pepper and salt, if wanted; put the volevent in a napkin. N. B. All puff paste should be dished on a napkin, either for the first or second course, by way of soaking the butter up. ItIMAULADE OF SMELTS. Turn the smelts round; put them into a stewpan with half a pint of “water, a quarter of a pint of vinegar, a glass of sherry wine, a few blades of mace, about a dozen of shalots, a little whole white pepper, a little salt, and about six anchovies, washed; set the stewpan on the fire, let it boil very slow for about ten minutes, then take off the stewpan, and take the smelts out of it with a small slice; pour the liquor over them, and put them to cool; dish the smelts when cold; strain the liquor over ROYAL COOK. 158 them, and garnish with parsley or chopped aspic. MATELOT OF CARP. Scale and clean the carp, and put them into a stewpan, with a pint of stock, a pint of port wine, two dozen of button onions, half a pottle of mushrooms, and a faggot, with a few blades of mace tied up in it, set it on the stove to stew for half an hour; then put about half an ounce of butter into a stewpan, with chopped parsley, shalot, three or four anchovies, and a little stock; set the stewpan on the fire to boil for a short time, then put a little flour, and add the liquor from the carp; put it on the fire to boil, and keep stirring it all the time; then rub it through a tammy-sieve, and put it to the carp, with about two dozen of oysters and liquor; (the oysters should be blanched first;) squeeze in half a lemon, and garnish with croutons. 154 THE IMPERIAL AND MATELOT OF CARP AND EEL. Bone the carp, put the bones into a stewpan, with four whole onions, a little parsley, basil, knotted and sweet marjoram, a pint of stock, a pint of port wine, and six or eight anchovies, unwashed; set it on the fire to boil for an hour, then strain it off, and put it to the carp, with about three dozen of button onions; set the stewpan on to simmer gently for an hour, then take it off; put about two ounces of butter into a stewpan, set it on the fire to melt, put as much flour as will dry up the butter, and add the stock that the carp was stewed in; set it on the fire, and keep stirring it, that it may not stick to the bottom; add about half a pint of port wine: when boiled three or four minutes, rub it through a tammy, and put it to the carp, with about a pint of oysters (first being blanched and bearded), and the liquor; give the carp one boil up, squeeze a lemon just before, dishing, and add a little essence of anchovy, if wanted; put the carp on the dish, and the sauce over it: garnish witli croutons. ROYAL COOK. 1 55 f A PIKE OR JACK BAKED. Turn the pike round, fasten it with a skewer, and make some common stuffing, the same as for a fillet of veal; put it in the belly, and sew it up with packthread; egg it over with a brush, and put bread crumbs over it; then drop oiled butter over it with a paste brush; slice a few onions, and put them in the dish the pike is to be baked in; put a faggot of sweet herbs, a bay leaf or two, a little marjoram,, and a sprig of basil; add a pint of stock and half a pint of sherry; put it in the oven, so as to have it done half an hour before it is wanted; strain the liquor from the pike, and skim the fat from it; put about an ounce of butter into a stewpan, and set it on the fire to melt; when melted, put as much flour as will dry it up; stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon, and then put in the liquor the pike was baked in; set it on the fire, and keep stirring it till it boils; let it boil for a few minutes, then add a little essence of anchovy, and strain it through a tammy; put it into the 156 THE IMPERIAL AND stewpan to keep hot until wanted; squeeze half a lemon in it before it is sent to table; put the pike on the dish, a little of the sauce round it, and the rest in a boat: remember to take the pack-thread out, and likewise the skewers; put some picked parsley on the middle of the pike, to give it a neat look. A SOUTIES OF SALMON, WITH CAPERS. Cut thin slices from a piece of split salmon, butter a souties-pan, and sprinkle it with chopped parsley, shalot, mushrooms, pepper, and salt; set it on a stove five minutes before it is wanted: when it has been on the stove three minutes, turn it, and let it stav the same time, or thereabout; then take it off, and put it round the dish; scrape the herbs, &c.; into a stewpan, put a little coulis and a few chopped capers; give it a boil, and put it in the middle of the dish the salmon is on. ROYAL COOK. 157 PICKLED SALMON. Pickled salmon is generally had from the oyster purveyors. If it should be desired to be pickled at home, it is done in the following manner: the salmon should of course be first cleaned and scaled, then split down the middle, and cut into proper sized pieces; (the number of pieces that the salmon is to be cut into, depends upon the size of the salmon); put the salmon into a fish kettle, and as much cold water as will barely cover it; add about a pint of vinegar, a handful of salt, about a dozen bay leaves, a little mace, and some white whole pepper: when the salmon is done, take it up, and lay it on a clean cloth; put the liquor into a smaller vessel, and set it on a quick stove to boil until three parts reduced; then put it into a pan to cool; when cold, put the s r aImon in. Salmon done in this way will retain its goodness for several months. CRAYFISH IN ASPIC. Put aspic in the mould, so as to be about a quarter of an inch thick; let it 158 THE IMPERIAL AND stand until quite cold; ornament it the same as jelly marbre; then put a little more aspic; when that is cold, put more in, and the crayfish with the shells on, (only mind to choose those that have the reddest shells); when the last aspic is quite cold, fill the mould up, and put it to cool; then turn it out, and garnish with sliced lemon. A SOUTIES OF CARP. Clean two carps of middling size; or, if large, one will do; butter a souties-pan, and sprinkle it with chopped shalot, parsley, a very little basil, pepper and salt, and a little Cayenne pepper; bone the carp, and cut it into thin collops: flat them, and put them on the souties-pan; set them on a slow stove for a few minutes; then turn them, and let them stay for a few minutes longer; then put them round the dish; scrape the herbs, &c.; into a stewpan, put a little coulis, one glass of port wine, and a little anchovy essence; give it a boil up, squeeze a little lemon-juice in, and add a ROYAL COOK. 159 very little sugar; put the sauce in the middle of the dish. N. B. If for meagre, make the sauce from the bones. EELS SPITCHCOCK. Skin two middle-sized eels, and bone them; flat them well; then cut them in lengths of about two inches; put about a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, with a little chopped shalots, parsley, sage, pepper, and salt; set the stewpan over a stove; when the butter is melted, take the stewpan off the fire, and put two yolks of egs: mix them well with butter, &c.; then dip the eels, (one piece at a time), and roll it in bread crumbs; make as much stick to the eel as you can; either broil them, or do them in a souties-pan, the same as lamb cutlets; they should be of a nice brown; before they are dished, lay them on a clean cloth, to soak the fat from them; put them round a dish, and picked parsley in the middle: send anchovy sauce in a boat. 160 THE IMPERIAL AND CARP BAKED. Put stuffing into the carp, turn it round, and brush it over with egg; put plenty of bread crumbs over it; then drop oiled butter over the bread crumbs; put it in a deep earthen dish, with a little stock, a few sliced onions, a few bay leaves, a little parsley, both sorts of marjoram, and a sprig or two of basil; put in half a pint of port wine, and three anchovies; put it in the oven; it will take an hour to bake; have the carp done a quarter of an hour before it is wanted, on account of having the liquor that it was baked in to make the sauce; put about an ounce of butter into a stewpan, and set it on the fire to melt; then put as much flour as will dry it up; put in the liquor from the carp, give it a boil, and keep stirring it during the time it is on the fire; when it has boiled, take it from the fire, and squeeze a lemon in; put a little Cayenne pepper and a little sugar; put the carp on the dish, garnish with parsley, and send the sauce in a boat. ROYAL COOK. 161 N. B. If the carp is for a meagre day, put butter in the stuffing instead of suet, and use water instead of stock; or fish stock, if convenient: observe this in all meagre dishes. O SALMON. Take a piece of salmon of five or six pounds weight, (or larger, according to your company); cut it into slices about an inch thick; after which, make a force-meat thus: — take some of the flesh off the salmon, and the same quantity of the meat off an eel, with a few mushrooms; season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and cloves, and beat it all together till it is very fine: boil the crumb of a roll in milk, and beat it up with four eggs till it is thick; then let it cool; add four raw eggs to it, and mix the whole together; take the skin from the salmon, and lay the slices in a dish; cover every slice with the force-meat; pour some melted butter over them, with a few crumbs of bread, and place oysters round the dish; put it in the oven; and, when it is of a fine 162 THE IMPERIAL AND brown, pour a little melted butter with some red wine boiled in it, and over it the juice of a lemon: serve it up hot to table. TURBOT. Take a dish about the size of the turbot, and rub butter thick all over it; throw on a little salt, a little beaten pepper, half a large nutmeg, and some parsley chopped fine; pour in a pint of white wine, cut off the head and tail, and lay the turbot in the dish; pour another pint of white wine all over; grate the other half of the nutmeg over it, and add a little pepper, some salt, and chopped parsley; lay a piece of butter, here and there, all over; then strew it with flour and crumbs of bread: being thus prepared, put it in the oven, and let it be done of a fine brown colour; when you take it out, put the tuibot into the dish in which you mean to serve it up: then stir the sauce into the dish it was baked in; pour it into a saucepan, shake in a little flour, and let it boil; then stir in a piece of butter, ROYAL COOK. 103 with two spoonfuls of catsup; when the whole boils, pour it into a bason, and serve it up with the fish: garnish your dish with lemon; and you may add whatever sauce you chuse, as shrimps, anchovies, mushrooms, &CC.; HADDOCKS AND WHITINGS. When you have gutted and washed them clean, dry them well in a cloth, and rub a little vinegar over them, which will prevent the skin from breaking; having done this, drudge them well with flour, and, before you put them on, rub the gridiron well with beef suet: let your gridiron be very hot when you lay your fish on, otherwise they will stick to it, and the fish be broke in turning: while they are boiling, turn them two or three times; and, wdien done, serve them up, with plain melted butter or shrimp sauce. Another, and indeed a very excellent method of broiling these fish, is thus: — when you have cleaned and dried them, as before mentioned, put them into a tin oven. 164 THE IMPERIAL AND and set them before a quick fire: as soon as the skins begin to rise, take them from the fire; having beat up an egg, rub it over them with a feather, sprinkle a few bread crumbs over them, drudge them well with flour, and rub your gridiron, when hot, with suet, or butter; lay on your fish, and, when you have turned them, rub over a little butter, and keep turning them till they are done enough. TURTLE. Tie a cord to the hind fins of the turtle, and hang it up; then tie another cord to the fore fins, by way of pinioning it, (that it should not beat itself, and be troublesome to the person who cuts off the head); then cut off the head, (this do the evening before you intend dressing it), and lay the turtle on a block, on the back shell; then loose the shell round the edge, by cutting it; then raise the shell clean off from the flesh, next take out the gall with great care; then cut the fore fins off; all the ROYAL COOK. 165 flesh will come with them; then cut the hind fins off; take the liver (as whole as you can) from the entrails; likewise the heart and kidneys; then cut the entrails round the back bone, and put them in a bucket; wash the shell in several waters, to clean it from the blood, and turn it down to drain; in the meantime, cut the fins from the lean meat, and cut the white, or belly shell, into about twelve or fourteen pieces; turn up the back shell, and take all the fat from it, (take it out the same as if you were skinning any thing), and put it into a stewpan; saw the rim of the back shell about six inches deep, (a strong locksaw is what should be used), and cut it into about ten or twelve pieces; set the large stewpan on the fire full of water, and, when it comes to a boil, dip a fin in it for a minute or two; then take it out and peel it very clean; when that is done, take another; and so on, until all are done; then the head; next the shell, piece by piece; be careful to take off all the outside peel and shell; then put the shell into a stewpan, with about eighteen large onions and 1G6 THE IMPERIAL AND a faggot of turtle herbs; fill it up with water, and set it on the fire to boil; when it comes to a boil, set it at the fire-side to boil slow until it becomes quite tender; next cut the fore fins into four pieces each, the hind fins into two each, and put them into a stewpan that will just hold them; put twelve onions and a faggot of turtle herbs; put as much water as will cover the fins, and set them on a stove; when it comes to a boil, set it at the fire-side to boil until the fins become tender, so that all the bones will draw out; take up the fins and draw all the bones with great care; then take up the other parts, and do the same; do not mix them, but lay them on different dishes; strain the liquor that both were boiled in into one pan; cut off the lean meat, for entres, such as for fricandeau, grenadines, collops, for roasting; boiling, as chickens, pates, cutlets, and semels; then put about a pound of fresh butter into a soup-pot, and all the lean meat that is left, three fowls, a faggot of turtle herbs, a dozen of onions, tw r o pounds of lean ham, (this should be put at the bottom of the 1 ROYAL COOK. 167 pot, and a bottle of Madeira wine); set the pot on the stove to draw down; be careful in not having too fierce a fire; when it has steamed for an hour, fill up the pot with the liquor that the fins and shells were boiled in; when it comes to a boil, take the pot from the trivet, and set it at the side to boil very slow for two hours; then strain it off, pick what lean meat you want for the tureens, and put it in a stewpan, with a little of the stock, to keep it hot: when the stock is boiling, set a person to scour and scald the entrails; you must be particular in seeing that they are very clean; then cut them in pieces about two inches long; put them on to blanch in cold water; then wash them out, and cover the bottom of a stewpan with fat bacon; put in the entrails, about a quart of stock, a few onions, and cover them over with sheets of bacon, and over that a sheet of white paper; let them stew very gently for three hours; put in two lemons that have been peeled, and cut in slices, before they are covered with the l xm; the liver is best as a sou ties; the lie 1 belongs to the 168 THE IMPERIAL AND fins; put two pounds of butter into a stewpan, with a pound of the best Westphalia ham, cut very fine, some chopped mushrooms, truffles, shalot, parsley, (double the quantity of any other herbs), sweet marjoram, knotted ditto, lemon and orange thyme, common thyme, basil (about half as much as of the other herbs), a Spanish onion, and a pint of good stock; set the stewpan over a slow stove to simmer for an hour, then put a plateful of flour; keep stirring it about for a few minutes over the fire, then put in the turtle stock (by a little at a time, as, were it all put in at once, you could not mix the flour so well), and four or five quarts of good stock, or as much as you think will be wanted, and one bottle of Madeira; let it boil for a few minutes, then rub it through a tammy, return it into a soup-pot, and callipee and callipash with it; cut it in pieces of about two inches square, or thereabouts; put the fins into another soup-pot, and some of the turtle-soup with them; put force-meat and egg-balls to both; the green fat should be boiled by itself in stock, and a little Ma 7 ItOYAL COOK. 1(9 deira wine; when done, cut it in small pieces, and put it to the soup; season the soup with Cayenne pepper and a little fine spice; be careful in using Cayenne pepper, as it is easy for the company to add a little, if necessary; squeeze four lemons and three Seville oranges into a bason, and put a pint of Madeira wine, a table-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a little salt, if wanted; put three parts to the soup, and the other to the fins; this should not be put in until a few minutes before dishing time; be careful that it does not boil after the lemon is put in; if the shell is sent up to table, put a rim of hot paste round it; ornament it as fancy directs; put it in the oven with a little of the turtle stock; when sent to table, fill it as you would a tureen; put what lean meat you have in the tureens, before the soup; if the lean meat is put to the soup, it is apt to boil to pieces, and spoil the look of the turtle; if the turtle is for meagre, use either fowl, veal, or ham; but none of the lean meat can be spared for made dishes, as it will all be wanted for the soup. I 170 THE IMPERIAL AND SWEETS. CHANTILLA CAKE. Cut a piece out of the top of a savoy cake, and scoop out the inside; put it on the dish that is to be sent to table; pour Lisbon wine into the cake, as the wine soaks out; pour it over the cake with the spoon; when the cake has absorbed as much wine as it can, pour the remainder in the dish, and pour custard down the sides, and also pour some in the middle; whip up some cream, the same as for a trifle, and put it in the middle of the cake; blanch a few sweet almonds, cut them in quarters, and stick them round the edges and on the sides of the cake. SPANISH FRITTERS. Grate two lemons with a fine grater; put them into a stewpan, with a little ItOYAL COOK. 171 water, a bit of cinnamon, and four or five cloves; set the stewpan on the stove to boil for a few minutes; take out tlje spice, and put about two ounces of butter; when melted, put in about four spoonfuls of flour, and one of sifted sugar; keep stirring it over the fire for a few minutes; then take it off, and break in six eggs, one at a time; keep beating it up until all the eggs are in; then beat it up for a few minutes, until it becomes a nice smooth batter, and then put in a glass of brandy: put some lard in a stewpan, make it hot, and drop the batter in with a tea-spoon; when they are of a nice brown, take them up, and put them on the back of a sieve; sift sugar over them, and dish them on a napkin. N. B. The batter should be thick. A SOUFFLE OF GINGER. Put a pint of milk and cream on to boil; put the peel of two lemons, a little cinnamon, and a lump of sugar, to make it sweet; let it bol for hal£ an hour, and then I 2 172 THE IMPERIAL AND put it to cool; then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan (that will hold two quarts), and set it on the fire to melt; when melted, put in as much flour as will dry up the butter; keep stirring it over the fire until it leaves the bottom of the stewpan; then take it off, and break in ten eggs, one at a time; keep stirring it till the egg is mixed well with the flour and butter; mix all the eggs the same way, until it becomes a thick batter; then put a sufficient quantity of the milk and cream that have been boiled; beat it up well together, (otherwise the eggs would separate in the boiling); and, when mixed, put half a pound of West India preserved ginger, cut in small pieces, a large glass of brandy, and a little nutmeg; butter a savoy cake-mould very thick with butter, not with the hand, but with a paste-brush; stick dry cherries on the mould in any manner your fancy directs; put the souffle in, and put the mould into a stewpan that has boiling water that will come better than half way up the mould; cover the stewpan, and put lighted charcoal on the ROYAL COOK. ITS cover; keep it boiling 1 very slow for an hour, or better; take the mould out of the stewpan about ten minutes before it is wanted, by which means the souffle will keep firmer; before it is turned out of the mould run the knife round it, by way of loosening it; pour white wine sauce over it. The wine sauce is made as follows: — put about an ounce of butter into a stewpan; when melted, put about half a table-spoonful of flour; stir it until it is mixed with the butter, then add white wine to it, to make it of the thickness of melted butter; grate a little nutmeg in it, and put about half a glass of brandy in the sauce; pour the sauce over the souffle. A RATIFIE PUDDING. Put a pint of milk and a pint of cream into a stewpan, with the peel of two lemons, a little cinnanon, and sugar; set it on the fire, and let it boil for half an hour; then strain it into a bason, and put the crumb of two French rolls into it; then butter a 174 THE IMPERIAL AND Savoy mould-cake, and stick dry cherries according to fancy; then put in half a pound of ratifies in the mould; break ten eggs in the bason, beat them up well, then put the eggs to the boiled milk, cream, and rolls; stir it well, so as to blend the rolls, eggs, and milk together; then put it in the mould that has the ratifies in: finish the same as the ginger souffle: pour wine sauce over it. RICE SOUFFLE. Line a mould (to answer the size of the dish) with tart paste; put a piece of bread in it to keep it from falling, and put it in the oven to bake; when done, take it out, and put it to cool; then put about a quarter of a pound of Carolina rice on to blanch in cold water; when it comes to a boil, take it off, and wash it in two or three waters; then put the rice into about three pints of new milk; put it on to boil; leep stirring it with a spoon, otherwise it will stick to the bottom; while the rice is boiling, put a little cinnamon and lemon-peel into about ROYAL COOK. 175 half a pint of milk, and let it boil some time, so as to get the flavour of the cinnamon and lemon-peel; when you think it is boiled enough, strain it into the rice; when the rice is done, put a quarter of a pound of butter, and as much sifted lump sugar as will sweeten it, and a glass of brandy; then whisk up the whites of four eggs, and put them to the rice: mix the whites of eggs well together, put it into the paste, and then in the oven to bake; first sift a little sugar over it: about fifteen minutes will bake it. DARIOLES, (SO CALLED FROM THE NAME OF THE MOULDS.) Make a bit of half puff-paste, sheet the moulds, but first butter them, and dust them with flour; half bake the paste; then fill them with custard, made as follows: — put a pint of milk, a pint of cream, a little cinnamon, and the peel of a lemon, into a stewpan; set it on to boil for a quarter of an hour, and then let it cool; beat up the yolks of eight eggs in a bason, sweeten it. 176 THE IMPERIAL AND with sifted lump sugar, pour the cream, kc. in, a little at a time; then mix it well, and strain it through a hair-sieve; set it again on the fire, and, when it begins to thicken, fill the darioles, and put them in the oven for ten minutes; when done, turn them out, and dish them; sift a little fine sugar over them, and glaze them with a salamander. CLEAR JELLY, ORNAMENTED OR PLAIN. Put the jelly-stock into a stewpan; put about a handful of isinglass w’ith it, a little cinnamon, a few cloves, and a few coriander seeds; put the jelly-stock on the stove to melt; when melted, take it off; for two quarts of jelly-stock, peel (very thin) six lemons and six Seville oranges; rub sugar to six more lemons and six more Seville oranges; then squeeze them all into a bason that has the peel in, and the sugar that has been rubbed to the lemon and oranges; put a bottle of Lisbon wine, and about half a pint of brandy; put all this to the jelly-stock, then break eighteen eggs ROYAL COOK. 177 (leaving out twelve yolks), whites, shells, and the six yolks, beat up together, and put them to the jelly-stock; put sugar sufficient to sweeten it; put it on the lire, have a whisk, and keep whisking it until it boils; then put it to the side of the stove to boil for about five minutes; take it from the fire, put the cover on, and put lighted charcoal on the cover, and let it stay for half an hour; then put it into the jelly-bag, prepared in a stand for that purpose; return it into the jelly-bag until it is clear, which is known by trying it in a glass; cover it up quite close to keep it warm, as by that means it will run the better: as for ornamenting, that must depend on fancy. RASPBERRY CREAM. Boil a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in a very little water; when dissolved, strain it through a hair-sieve; while warm, put it to a quart of cream; keep whisking it up while putting the isinglass in; warm about half a pint of raspberry jelly, and put i 5 178 THE IMPERIAL AND it to the cream; add a little sifted sugar and a small glass of brandy; whisk it up well, until it becomes quite thick; then put it into the mould. N. B. In summer, use fresh raspberries; about a pint will make a mould of about a pint and a half; rub it through a tammy. CEDERATA CREAM. Boil a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in a very little water; w r hen dissolved, strain it into a quart of good cream; keep whisking the cream while the isinglass is putting in, to hinder it from settling; then put in a glass of brandy and a table-spoonful of extract of cederata; whisk it well up, until it becomes quite thick; then put it into the mould: garnish with sliced orange, if in season. N. B. Add lump sugar. COFFEE CREAM, IN CUPS. Boil a quart of cream, and put a little isinglass in, (about half an ounce will be ROYAL COOK. 170 sufficient); strain the cream, and put about a pint of strong coffee; sweeten it with sugar-candy, and put about a table spoonful of cederata, (if to be had); put the cream into a pan, and whisk it up for about five minutes; then put the cream in the cups. TARTLETS. Sheet the tartlet-pan with puff-paste; put what sweet-meat you think proper, cross-bar them, and put them in the oven to bake; when done, put them on paper, to soak the butter from the paste. GATEAU MILLEFLEUR. A gateau millefleur is cut out of puffpaste; (there are millefleur cutters for that purpose); put different sweet-meats in every piece; spin carmel sugar over all, as it hinders the paste from falling out. 180 THE IMPERIAL AND RHENISH CREAM. Bfat up the yolks of eight egg’s very fine; add a quart of jelly, by a little at a time; then strain it through a lawn-sieve; stir it until nearly cold, and then put it into a mould: garnish with China orange. COMPOTE OF PEARS. Peel the pears, cut them down the middle, and take out the core; put about half a pound of sugar on to boil in about half a pint of water; skim it until it is quite clear, then put a pint of port wine to it; put the pears into a preserving-pan, and pour the sugar and w ine over them; put in about two dozen of cloves; cover them over with paper, and let them boil gently until tender; they will take two hours: this quantity of sugar and wine will do for twelve pears. A TRIFLE. Cut a few slices off a savoy cake, and put them at the bottom of a trifle-dish. ROYAL COOK. 181 (which is something 1 like a salad-dish, in respect to depth); lay a layer of macaroons on them, and a layer of ratifees; pour a pint of Lisbon over the cakes, leave it long enough to soak all the wine up, and then cover the cakes with custard, made in the following manner: — put a quart ol milk and cream mixed, and a little cinnamon, lemon-peel, and sugar; let it boil for half an hour; take it ofT the stove, and put it to cool: to this quantity of milk and cream put the yolks of eight eggs, and a spoonful of flour; beat them up in a bason, with a spoon, very well; put the milk in by little at a time, and keep stirring it all the while; then strain it through a hair- sieve into a stewpan; put it on a i ri.sk fire, and be sure to keep stirring it until it comes to a boil; then take it off’, and put it to cool; when half cold, add a glass of brandy and a few spoonfuls of ratifee; then cover the cakes with it, and lay apricot jam upon the custard; then put a pint of good cream into a bason, w ith the v. hite of an egg, a lump of sugar rubbed to a lemon, and about two glasses of white wine; beat it 183 THE IMPERIAL AND up with a whisk, and skim the froth vith a spoon that lias holes it; lay the froth on the back of the sieve, which should be laid upon a dish, to save the drainings to return into the pan again, for whipping; lay the whipped cream over the trifle; put a few harlequin seeds in any form you think proper: garnish the edge of the dish with pre served orange, or dried orange-peel. BLANC MANGE. Put an ounce of isinglass into a stewparr,. with half a pint of water; let it simmer very gently until the isinglass is quite dissolved, then strain it into a pint of cream and a pint of milk mixed; put the peel of a lemon in, and a little cinnamon and sugar; let it boil for fifteen minutes; blanch two ounces of sweet almonds and half an ounce of bitter almonds; pound them until they are fine enough to go through a tammy; then mix them with the milk and cream, &c.; let all boil for a few minutes; then rub it through a tam ROYAL COOK. IBS my, so as to get all the almonds through; then put a glass of white brandy to it; when getting cold, put it in a mould. N. B. When a larger quantity is wanted, use almonds and isinglass accordingly. APPLE AND BARBERRY TART. Shee r a tart-pan with short pagte; put half apple and half barberries; put sugar, and cover it in, and finish the same as other tarts. ICEING FOR RICH CAKES. Put one pound of very fine sifted treblerefined sugar into a bason, and the whites of three new laid eggs; beat the sugar and eggs up well with a spoon, until they become very white, and quite thick; the more it is beat up, the whiter and thicker it will get; when done, put it over a cake with a spoon, smooth it with a knife, and garnish it according to fancy. N. B. Put the ornaments on before the iceing becomes dry. THE IMPERIAL AND 181 SPONGE BISCUITS Oil CAKES. Take fourteen ounces of very fine flour dried and sifted, one pound of lump sugar sifted through a lawn-sieve, and the rind of two lemons grated; put a deep pan either over a very slow stove or before the fire, so – as to make the pan quite hot; (be very careful that the pan is free from greese; if the parf has been used for any thing else, rub the inside with a little flour); break twelve eggs into a bason, then put them into the pan, and whisk them up until the eggs become quite thick; then put in the sugar, and whisk it up for about five minutes over a very slow stove; then let it stand while you are buttering the pans, which require very great attention; the butter should be worked about the pan until it becomes like cream, and very thick; then beat up the eggs again for about five minutes; then take the whisk out, and knock it on the sides of the pan, to get the batter from it; then put in the flour and lemon-peel, and mix it up with the spoon; then fill the pans; put them on a baking ROYAL COOK. 185 slieet, and sift a little sugar over them through a lawn-sieve, and put them in the oven; the oven should be very quick; they will not take many minutes; when done, take them out of the pans, and lay them on a dish, bottom upwards; wipe the pans very clean while hot. N. B. This batter will do for Naples biscuits, and different kinds of drops. Naples biscuit-mould’s are different from the sponge cake-moulds; they are to be had at any tin-shop. MUSHROOM FRITTERS. Make batter the same way as for pancakes, only make it thicker, otherwise it will not stick to the mould; (the mould is made by Mr. Buhle of St. Martin’s Lane); have some lard hot in a stewpan, and have sweet oil in a tea-cup, or something of the same size, to dip the mould in; drain the oil from it, then dip it in the batter, and then immediately in the hot lard; take it out as soon as the fritter becomes brown, 186 THE IMPERIAL AND lay them on white kitchen paper, to soak the lard from them; fill the hollow part with custard; sift fine sugar, and hold the salamander over to glaze the fritters; dish them on a napkin. PEU D ’AMOURS. Peu d ’amours are made of puff-paste cut out in what shape is thought proper; put them on a baking sheet; brush them over with the white of egg; sift a little fine sugar over them, and put them in the oven; when done, and cold, put any sweetmeat that is most convenient; dish them in the shape of a pyramid. ORANGE CREAM. Squeeze twelve China oranges into one quart of jelly; beat up six yolks of eggs with a little warm jelly; strain it to the main part, and keep stirring it until it begins to set; then put it into the mould. ROYAL COOK. 187 CHINA ORANGE JELLY. Rub the bloom of six China oranges upon half a pound of sugar; peel three Seville oranges and three lemons very thin; put them into a stewpan with a pint of water, one ounce of isinglass, a little cinnamon, a few coriander seeds, and a few cloves; boil all together until the isinglass is dissolved; then strain it in a bason; put a pint of white wine and a glass of brandy to it, the juice of the Seville and China oranges and lemons, and the sugar that was rubbed to the China oranges; keep stirring it until nearly cold, then put it into a mould: garnish with China orange sliced. N. B. If you should have clear jelly to spare, that will answer the purpose better than making it from isinglass; rub the bloom of six China oranges upon a cpiarter of a pound of sugar, squeeze the oranges, strain the juice, and put that and the sugar to a quart of clear jelly; keep stirring it until cold, then put it in the mould. 188 THE IMPERIAL AND ORANGE SOUFFLE. Orange souffle, is orange jelly put into a pan, and whisked until nearly stiff; then put in the mould: garnish with China orange. GUM PASTE FOR ORNAMENTS. Take what quantity of gum-dragon you think proper, put it into a small deep sweetmeat pot; put as much warm water as will cover it, and cover it over with paper; when it has stood about six hours, take it out of the pot, and turn it upside down; then put it in the pot again, with as much more water; let it stand all night; next day strain it through a cloth; then put it in a mortar, with a little treble refined sugar, sifted through a fine drum-sieve; it will take at least one hour pounding; when it is pounded enough, it will draw into strings, and crack against a mortar; put a little fine hair-powder in it before you take it out of the mortar; when taken out of the mortar, w r ork it up with treble-refined ROYAL COOK. 189 sugar, sifted as before mentioned, and onethird hair-powder; make as many colours as you please; then make what ornaments are wanted. A TAPIOCA PUDDING, EITHER BAKED OR BOILED. Put half a pound of Tapioca in a stewpan, with cold water; set it on the fire till it comes to a boil; then strain it off, and boil it in a quart of new milk; let it boil slow until it has soaked up all the milk, then put it into a bason to cool; break ten eggs, leave out four whites, beat them up, and sweeten with moist sugar; add a glass of brandy, two ounces of oiled butter, and nutmeg; either bake or boil it. A BEST SORT OF PLUM PUDDING. A pound of raisins stoned, a pound of currants, well washed and picked, a pound of suet chopped very fine, a pound of flour, and as much bread crumbs, a little pounded spice, an ounce of preserved lemon-peel, an 190 THE IMPERIAL AND ounce of orange-peel, an ounce of citron, about half a nutmeg grated, and a quarter of a pound of moist sugar; mix all together by rubbing it betwixt your hands, and then put it in a bason; break eight eggs into it; put about half a pint of new milk, and two glasses of brandy; stir it up well with a wooden spoon; be careful not to wet it too much, for if it is not very thick, the fruit will settle at the bottom; it will take four hours to boil. MERINGUES. Beat up the whites of four new-laid eggs yith half a pound of double-refined sugar, very finely sifted; beat it up with a silver spoon until it becomes thick, like paste; put about a tea- spoonful of cederata in it; if you have not that, grate a lemon in it; when finished, get a sheet of writing paper, put it upon a baking sheet, and drop the batter on the paper; drop it rather of an oval; sift some fine sugar over them, and put them in the oven for a l ROYAL COOK. 191 few minutes; the oven should be rather slow; be careful not to let them burn; when done, take them off the paper, by running a knife under them, but very gently, for fear of breaking them; put a little sweetmeat in them, and stick two together; they are very proper to fill caramel baskets, or gum paste ditto, or on a dish for second course — or supper. SMALL CURD AND ALMOND PUDDING, BAKED. Get some cheese-curd; put it on a hairsieve to drain the whey from it; put a pewter plate over it, and the weight of eight or ten pounds, to press it quite dry; then rub the curd through a hair- sieve, (and put about a quarter of a pound of butter to about a quarter of a pound of curd, to be rubbed through with the curd); put it in a bason, and break eight eggs, (leave out six whites); sweeten it with sifted lump sugar; grate two lemons in it, some nutmeg, and a glass of brandy; add 192 THE IMPERIAL AND about two ounces of sweet almonds, about eight or ten bitter almonds, and a few currants; butter the mould well with a paste brush; then throw in some fine bread crumbs, so as to stick to the sides; fill the mould, and let them bake for half an hour in a quick oven; then turn them out, and pour wine sauce over them: the same preparation will do for a large mould, if you want to match any thing similar to it. N. B. Crumble six sponge biscuits in, or an equal quantity of Savoy cake; or French roll, if the latter is not convenient. SAVOY CAKE. To one pound of fine sifted sugar put the yolks of ten eggs, (the whites are to be put in a separate pan); beat the yolks and sugar up well with a wooden -spoon for half an hour; then whisk the whites up until they become quite stiff, and white; (stir them into the batter, by little at a time); when all is in, add three quarters of a pound of flour that has been dried before ROYAL COOK. 19S the fire, and the rind of a lemon, grated; then put the mixture into the moulds; , they should be baked in a very slow oven; when you think they are done, run a knife down the middle; if the knife comes out quite clean, the cakes are done; the mould should be prepared before you begin the cakes, in the following manner: — have some clarified fresh butter, and butter the moulds with a small brush, (what the painters call a tool); mix about three ounces of very fine mixed sugar with about an ounce of flour: then throw it all into one mould, and shake it about well; turn it out into the other mould, and knock the mould upon the table, so as to leave no more sugar than sticks to the mould; be very particular with the moulds: there is as much art in preparing the mould, as in mixing the batter for the cake: when for second course, or suppers, they are ornamented with gum paste. K 194 THE IMPERIAL AND A CUSTARD PUDDING, EITHER BAKED OR BOILED. Boil a pint of milk and a pint of cream together, with cinnamon, lemon-peel, and nutmeg, for half an hour; strain it, and put it to cool; break eight eggs, (leaving out four whites), and add about a tablespoonful of flour; beat them well; then add the milk and cream that have been boiled, and a glass of brandy: if for baking, put thin puff-paste at the bottom of the dish (first buttering it) and round the rim; then strain the custard into the dish; it will take about twenty minutes: if for boiling, butter the mould, and let it boil about half an hour: garnish the dish you send it up in with currant jelly, and pour wine sauce over it. CHESNUT PUDDING. Boil a dozen and a half of chesnuts a quarter of an hour; blanch, peel, and beat them in a mortar, with a little orange-flour. ROYAL COOK. 19 o or rose-water, and white wine, till of a fine thin paste; beat op twelve eggs, with the whites; grate half a nutmeg in three pints of cream, a little salt, and half a pound of melted butter; sweeten it, and mix all together; put it over the fire, and stir it till thick; lay puff paste over the dish; pour the mixture in the dish, and send it to the oven: when cream cannot be got, take three pints of milk; beat up the yolks of four eggs, and stir them into the milk: set it over the fire, stir it all the time, till scalding hot, and use this instead of cream. A CITRON PUDDING. Take a spoonful of flour, two ounces of sugar, nutmeg, and half a pint of cream; mix them together, with three yolks of eggs; put them into tea-cups, and add two ounces of citron, cut very thin: bake them in a quick oven, and turn them out upon a dish. 196 THE IMPERIAL AND A GEORGE PUDDING. Boil a handful of rice in a little milk till tender, with a piece of lemon -peel; drain it, mix with it a dozen of good sized apples, boiled to a pulp as dry as possible; add a glass of white wine, the yolks of five eggs, two ounces of orange and citron, cut thin, and sugar; line the mould or bason with the paste; beat the whites of eggs to a very strong froth, and mix with the other ingredients; fill the bowl, and make it brown; serve it, bottom upwards, with the following sauce: — two glasses of white wine, a spoonful of sugar, the yolks of two eggs, and a bit of butter; simmer, without boiling; pour it to and from the saucepan till of a proper thickness, then put it on the pudding. GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. Stew gooseberries till they will pulp; take a pint of the juice, pressed through a sieve, and beat it with three eggs, beaten and strained: add an ounce and a half of ROYAL COOK. 197 butter; sweeten and put the crust round the dish: a few crumbs of roll should be mixed with the above, or four ounces of Naples biscuits. A GRATEFUL PUDDING. To one pound of flour put a pound of grated bread; take eight eggs, with half the whites; beat them up, and mix with them a pint of new milk; stir in the bread and flour, a pound of raisins, stoned, a pound of currants, half a pound of sugar, and a little beaten ginger; mix all well together, pour it into your dish, and put it in the oven: cream, instead of milk, will be a great improvement. LADY SUNDERLAND’S PUDDING. Beat up the yolks of eight eggs with the whites of three; add five spoonfuls of flour, and a nutmeg grated, and put them into a pint of cream; butter the inside of small basons; fill them half full, and hake them an hour: when done, turn them out 198 THE IMPERIAL AND of the basons; pour melted butter over them, with white wine and sugar. ITALIAN PUDDING. Lay puffed paste at the bottom and round the edge of a dish; over which pour a pint of cream, French rolls grated, and half a pound of marrow sliced; take ten eggs, beaten fine, a nutmeg grated, twelve pippins sliced, some orange-peel, and sugar, and half a pint of red wine: half an hour will bake it. MARROW PUDDING. Boil cinnamon and lemon-peel for an hour in a pint of milk; strain it into a bason, and put it to cool; beat up the yolks of six eggs with half the whites; then add the milk that you strained, with a little brandy and nutmeg; put puff-paste round the rim of the dish you intend to bake it in; butter the bottom; cut the crumb of three French rolls into slices, and lay them at the bottom of the dish; then cut mar ROYAL COOK. 199 row in thin slices, lay them at the bottom of the dish, and lay it on the rolls; sprinkle a few currants over the marrow; then lay another layer of bread, marrow, and currants; and repeat it till the dish is full; about a quarter of an hour before you put it into the oven pour some of the custard over it, and the remainder as you put it in: it will take about half an hour. QUINCE PUDDING. Scald your quinces tender, pare them thin, scrape off the pulp, mix with sugar, very sweet, and add a little ginger and cinnamon; to a pint of cream you must put two or three yolks of eggs, and stir it into your quinces till they are of a good thickness: butter your dish, pour it in, and bake it. SAGO PUDDING. Boil four ounces of sago in water for a few minutes, strain it off, put it into about a quart of milk, and boil it until tender; 200 THE IMPERIAL AND boil lemon-peel and cinnamon in a little milk, and strain it through the sago; put the whole into a bason; break eight eggs, mix well together, and sweeten with moist sugar; add a glass of brandy, and nutmeg; put puff-paste round the rim of the dish, and butter the bottom: three quarters of an hour will bake it. T ARTS. CHERKY: Make a good crust; lay a little of it round the sides of the dish, and strew a little sugar at the bottom; then lay in your fruit and sugar at the top; put on your lid, and bake it in a slack oven: currants mixed with the cherries will be a considerable improvement. A plumb or gooseberry tart may be made in the same manner. royal cook. 201 TART DE MOI. Put puff-paste round the dish, then a layei of biscuits, a layer of butter and marrow, another of all sorts of sweetmeats, and so on, till the dish is full; boil a quart of ci earn, thicken it with eggs, put in a spoonful of orange-flour-water, sweeten with sugar, pour it over the whole, and bake it half an hour. ANGELICA TARTS. Pare and core golden pippins or nonpareils; take the stalks of angelica peel, and cut them into small pieces; apples and angelica, of each an equal quantity; boil the apples in water enough to cover them, with lemon-peel and fine sugar; do them gently till they become a thin syrup, then strain it off; put it on the fire with the angelica in it, and let it boil ten minutes: make a puff-paste; lay it at the bottom of the tin; then the layer of apples, and the layer of angelica, till full; pour in some syrup, put on the lid, and put it in a very moderate oven. K 5 202 THE IMPERIAL AND CHOCOLATE TART. Rasp a quarter of a pound of chocolate and a stick of cinnamon; add to them, fresh lemon-peel grated, a little salt, and sugar; take two spoonfuls of fine flour, and the yolks of six eggs, well beaten and mixed with milk; put all this into a stewpan, and let them be a little time over the fire; then take it off; put in lemon-peel, cut small, and let it stand until cold: beat up enough of the whites of eggs to cover it, and put it into puff-paste: when baked, sift sugar over, and glaze it with a salamander. ORANGE TART. Grate a little of the outside of a Seville orange, squeeze the juice into a dish, put the peel into water, and change it often, for four daysj then put them into a saucepan ol boiling water on the fire; change the water twice, to take out the bitterness; and, when tender, wipe, and beat them fine in a mortar: boil their weight in ROYAL COOK. 203 double-refined sugar into a syrup, and skim it; then put in the pulp, and boil all together till clear: when cold, put it into the tarts, squeeze in the juice, and bake them in a quick oven. Conserve of oranges makes good tarts. RASPBERRY TARTS AND CREAM. Roll out thin puff-paste, and lay it in a patty-pan; put in raspberries, and strew fine sugar over them: put on a lid, and, when baked, cut it open, and put in half a pint of cream, the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, and a little sugar. RHUBARB TART. Cut the stalks in lengths of four inches, and take off the thin skin: if you have a hot hearth, lay them in a dish; put over a thin syrup of sugar and water; cover with another dish, and let it simmer very slowly for one hour; — or do them in a block-tin saucepan. When cold, make them into tarts. 204 THE IMPERIAL AND SWEET PATES. Chop the meat of a boiled calf’s foot, two apples, an ounce of candied orange and lemon-peel, some fresh lemon-peel, and juice; mix them with a nutmeg grated, the yolk of an egg, a spoonful of brandy, and four ounces of currants, washed and dried: bake them in small patty-pans. PATES LIKE MINCE PIES. Chof the kidney and fat of cold veal, apples, orange and lemon-peel candied, fresh currants, a little white wine, two or three cloves, a little brandy, and a bit of sugar: bake them in the same manner as sweet pates. VEAL PATES. Mince veal that is rather under-done, with parsley, lemon-peel, a little nutmeg, and salt; add a little cream, and gravy just sufficient to moisten the meat; if you have ham, scrape a little, and add to it; ROYAL COOK. 205 do not warm it till the pates are baked, and observe to put a square bit of bread into each, to prevent the paste from rising into cake. PUFFS. ALMOND. Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, and beat them fine, with orange-flourwater; whisk the whites of three eggs to a froth, strew in sifted sugar, mix the almonds with the sugar and eggs, and add sugar till as thick as paste: lay it in cakes, and bake it on paper in a cool oven. CHOCOLATE. Beat and sift half a pound of doublerefined sugar; scrape into it an ounce of chocolate very fine, and mix them together; beat the white of an egg to a high 206 THE IMPERIAL AND froth, and strew into the sugar and chocolate; beat it till as stiff as paste; then sugar the paper, drop them on the size of a sixpence, and bake them in a slow oven. CURD. Mix a little rennet in a quart of new milk; when the curd comes, and is broken, put it into a coarse cloth to drain: rub the curd through a hair-sieve with a spoon, and ten ounces of grated Savoy biscuit, three ounces of butter, half a grated nutmeg, the grated rind of a lemon, a tablespoonful of white wine, and sugar to your taste: rub the cups with butter, rather more than half fill them, and bake them forty minutes in a quick oven. LEMON. Bruise a pound of double-refined sugar, and sift it through a fine sieve; put it into a bowl, with the juice of two lemons, and mix them together; beat the white of an ROYAL COOK. 207 egg to a very high froth, put it into your bowl; put in three eggs, with two rinds of lemon grated: mix it well up, and throw sugar on your paper; drop on the puffs in small drops, and bake them in a moderately heated oven. ORANGE. Pare off the rinds from Seville oranges, and then rub them with lt; let them lie four and twenty hours in water; boil them in four changes of water; make the first salt; drain, and beat them to a pulp; bruise in the pieces of all that you have pared: make it very sweet with loaf-sugar, and boil it till thick; let it stand till cold, and then put it into the paste. SUGAR. Beat up the whites of ten eggs till they rise to a high froth; then put them into a marble mortar, with as much double-refined sugar as will make it thick; rub it well round the mortar, and put in a few 208 THE IMPERIAL AND carra way-seeds; take a sheet of wafers, and lay it on as broad as a sixpence, and as high as you can; put them into a moderately heated oven fora quarter of an hour, and they will look quite white. PANCAKES. Beat up six eggs, leaving out half the whites, and stir them into a quart of milk; mix your flour first with a little of the milk, add the rest by degrees; put in two spoonfuls of beaten ginger, a glass of brandy, and a little salt; put a piece of butter into your pan, then pour in a ladleful of batter, which will make a pancake; move the pan round, that the batter may spread all over it: shake the pan; and when you think one side is done enough, turn it; and when the other is done, lay it on a dish before the fire, and serve it as quick as possible. CREAM PANCAKES. Mix the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, two ounces of sugar, beaten ROYAL COOK. 209 cinnamon and mace, and nutmeg: rub your pan with lard, and fry them as thin as possible: grate fine sugar over them. RICE PANCAKES. Boil half a pound of rice to a jelly in a small quantity of water; when cold, mix it with a pint of cream, eight eggs, salt, and nutmeg, stirring a quarter of a pound of butter just warmed; add as much flour as will make the batter thick enough: fry them in as little lard as possible. PINK COLOURED PANCAKES. Boil beat-root till tender, and then beat it fine in a mortar; add the yolks of four eggs, two spoonfuls of flour, and three or four of cream; sweeten it, and grate in half a nutmeg: add a glass of brandy: mix all well together, and fry your pancakes in butter: garnish them with green sweetmeats. 210 THE IMPERIAL AND FRITTERS. CUSTARD FRITTERS. Beat up the yolks of eight eggs, one spoonful of flour, half a nutmeg grated, salt, and a glass of brandy; put a pint of cream; sweeten, and bake it in a small dish: when cold, cut it into quarters, and dip them in batter made of half a pint of cream, a quarter of a pint of milk, four eggs, a little flour, and a little ginger grated: fry them; and, when done, strew oyAr them prated siurar. WHITE FRITTERS. Wash two ounces of rice, dried before the fire; beat it very fine in a mortar, and sift it through a lawn-sieve; put it into a saucepan; when thoroughly moistened w r ith milk, add to it another pint; set it over a stove or a slow fire, and keep it moving; put in ginger and candied lemon-peel grated; ROYAL COOK. 211 keep it over the fire till of the thickness of fine paste; when cold, spread it out with a rolling-pin; cut it into little pieces, and take care they do not stick to each other; flour your hands, roll up the fritters handsomely, and fry them: when done, strew on them sugar, and pour orange-flour-water over them. HASTY FRITTERS. Heat some butter in a stewpan; then take half a pint of ale, and stir it into it by degrees; add a little flour, and a few currants, or chopped apples; beat them up, and drop a large spoonful at a time all over the pan, but be careful they do not stick together; turn them with an egg slice; and, when brown, lay them on a dish; strew sugar over, and serve them hot. ROYAL FRITTERS. Put a quart of new milk into a saucepan; and, when it begins to boil, pour in a pint of white wine; take it off, and let 212 THE IMPERIAL AND it stand five or six minutes; skim the curd off, and put it into a bason; mix it well up with six eggs, and season it with nutmeg; beat it with a whisk, and add flour sufficient to give it the thickness of batter; add some sugar, and fry them quick. PIES AND PASTRY. PIGEON PIE, IN A DISH. DHAV fa the legs of six pigeons season them with pepper, salt, chopped shalots, mushrooms, and parsley, all mixed; lay beef-steaks at the bottom of the dish; put a little stock between each layer of beefsteaks; (otherwise the beef-steaks are apt to stick together, when done); lay the pigeons on the beef-steaks; put in eight hard yolks of eggs, and cover the pie with puff-paste: it will take an hour to bake: when done, add about half a pint of good stock and coulis, mixed. ROYAL COOK. 213 PATE A LA FRANCOISE. Raise a pie about three inches high; lay the bottom with slices of veal, then a few mushrooms, then a few slices of ham, a chicken cut up, a few more mushrooms, and a sweetbread cut in slices; season it with pepper, salt, and sweet herbs; cover it in, and put it in the oven: it will take about two hours in a slack oven: when done, pour off the fat, and put coulis, and six yolks of eggs boiled hard. AMIENS PIE. Raise a pie to match the ham pie; bone two ducks, and fill them with farce; put them in a stewpan, with a little stock; cover them with bacon, and set them on a slow stove to simmer for an hour; then put them to cool in the liquor they were done in; when cold, put them in the pie, first laying a few slices of veal at the bottom, and farce on the veal; put the ducks in, and the liquor, fat, and all that they were done in; cover them all over with bacon; I 214 THE IMPERIAL AND the pie will take two hours’ baking; put the bones and giblets of the ducks, and any other giblets that are at hand, into a stewpan, with a faggot, a few blades of mace, a pint of sherry, a pint of stock, and about a dozen of shalots; set them on a stove to boil very slow for two hours; then strain it off, and skim the fat from it; put a bit of butter into a stewpan; when melted, put flour to dry up the butter, then the liquor which the bones, &:c. were boiled in; let it boil a few minutes, strain it through a tammy-sieve, and put it in the pie. N. B. Put about one pound of truffles in the pie before it goes into the oven; the truffles should be peeled, but not boiled. A GOOSE AND TURKEY PIE. Bone two geese and two turkeys; season the inside with mixed pepper and salt, and a little fine spice; put them by for three days, and then draw the geese one within the other: put some good farce in the middle, and about six raw truffles, first ROYAL COOK. 215 being peeled; then tie the geese into what shape you think proper; do the turkeys the same, and put farce in the turkeys, and truffles, and about three pounds of the prime part of Westphalia ham that has been braised for about two hours; then make the turkey the same shape as the geese; put about one pint of good stock into a braising-pan (or any thing of that kind) that will barely hold them, as by that means they will keep their shape; put them on a slow stove to simmer gently for half an hour, by way of setting them; put them to cool in the pan they are done in; while they are cooling, raise the pie; let them be thoroughly cold before they are put in the pie; lay either slices of a fillet of veal, or rump-steaks, at the bottom of the pie; then put in a layer of farce, and then the turkeys and geese; put farce between them, and all round the sides of the pie, and about two pounds of raw truffles, first being peeled, and cover them with sheets of bacon; then cover the pie with paste, and ornament it according to fancy: observe to ornament it strong; for, 7 216 THE IMPERIAL AND if done fine, it will not look well, by being so long in the oven; it should not be put in the oven the same evening that it is made, but next morning, or evening: the best oven for it, is just when the bread is drawn out: leave it in about eight hours; when you take it out of the oven, be careful that you do not spill any fat that rises to the top, as that soaks into the geese and turkeys, and makes them mellow: this pie will take four and twenty hours to get cold, therefore you must prepare accordingly. It ought to be begun four days before the day on which it is wanted. Before the pie is sent up to the table there should be chopped aspic put in it, and the sheets of bacon taken off. This is the general rule, but not the rule that I either recommend or follow; for this reason: by taking the bacon off the geese, you let the air into the pie, and then the aspic will get sour and mouldy in a few days; therefore I recommend the following method: — put the bones of the turkeys and geese, two old fowls, and two pounds of lean ham, into a proper sized stewpan, with twelve onions. royal cook. 217 six heads of celery, a little parsley, and other sweet herbs; put one pint of water to them, and put the stewpan on a stove to simmer very slowly for two hours, but be sure that it does not catch at the bottom; fill it up with stock, and let it boil very slow for three hours; then strain it off, fill the stewpan again with water, and let it boil all the evening; the liquor that was first strained off put into a stewpan, (first skimming the fat off), to reduce to the quantity that you think will fill up the pie after it is baked, and should be put in about half an hour after it is taken out of the oven, just as much as will barely cover the bacon; this will make the pie eat far better. N. B. Small pies for ball-suppers should have the aspic put over them before they are sent to table; in every other respect, all cold pies should be made in this manner, only varying as to different meats, &c.; A tin case has been invented for large pies, which is made use of in the following manner: — make paste the same as for a raised pie, brush the inside of the L 218 THE IMPERIAL ANb mould with egg, (be sure to put plenty on), roll out the paste about two inches larger than the bottoms, that it may turn up on the sides; then roll out paste to cover th£ inside; let it turn over about an inch; roll pieces of paste two inches larger than the bottom, egg four sheets of large kitchenpaper, lay the paste on them, put plenty of egg on the paste, and put on the tin case; the egg will make it stick to the tin; then roll paste out for the sides, roll it in two pieces, egg the sides, and put the paste on; rub it smooth with the palm of your hand, to hinder it from gathering wind, which, if it does, the paste will blister and break when a few days baked; the paste that goes round the sides should be about two inches broader than the side of the pie, so as to lay over the top and fasten to the bottom paste, so as to make it a proper thickness, to enable you to pinch the bottom, and the same at the top: when the case is properly covered, then fill the pie as before directed; cover it in, and ornament it: as to size and shape, that must depend on those who are to make or order the pie: ROYAL COOK. 219 the tin cases are made by Mr. Bailis, in Cockspur-street, Charing- cross, who will give a proper direction how to use them, by lining it with paper, to give a clear idea to those who may not comprehend what I have said upon this subject. By using those tins, you are sure of all the liquor remaining in the pie: for instance; make a large pie, without a tin case; an accident may happen to it, so as to crack in the oven, which lets the gravy and goodness out, and of course the true flavour of the pie is lost, and the cook blamed by his employer for what he could not avoid; for at times the flour will not stand the oven without cracking; and it certainly does .not take half the flour, which is a great consideration: the Hn case will last a number of years. There is another advantage, which is, there is no occasion to set the meat; for if the meat is not set, when the crust is raised it will burst the pie, and of course let out all the essence of the inside, which cannot be retrieved without double expense. 220 THE IMPERIAL AND A CHRISTMAS PIE. It is made in the same manner as the last, with the addition of partridges, hares, and pheasants, all boned: as to the number, it depends on the size which the pie is to be. A COLD PARTRIDGE PIE. Bone partridges, the number according to the size the pie is wanted; make some good farce, and fill the partridges with it: put a whole raw truffle in each partridge, (let the truffle be peeled); raise the pie; put a few slices of veal in the bottom of it, and a thick layer of farce; then the partridges, and four raw truffles to each partridge; then cover the partridges and truffles over with sheets of bacon; cover the pie in, and finish it; it will take four hours’ baking; cut two pounds of lean ham (if eight partridges are in the pie) in very thin slices, put it in a stewpan, with the bones and giblets of the partridges, and any other loose giblets that are at hand, an old fowl, a ROYAL COOK. 221 small quantity of parsley, a little mace,, and about twenty-four shalots; put about half a pint of stock; set the stcwpan on a stove to draw down for half an hour, and then put three quarts of good stock; let it boil for two hours, then strain it off, and reduce the liquid to one quart, or until it nearly becomes a glaze; then put one pint of sherry wine to it, and put it away until the pie is baked; when the pie has been out of the oven for half an hour, boil what was strained from the bones, &c.; of the partridges, and put it to the pie; let it stand for twenty-four hours before it is cut. N. B. Do not take any of the fat from the pie, for that is what preserves it. A pie made in this manner will be fit for eating three months after it is cut; in short, it cannot spoil in any reasonable time; all cold pies are made in this manner: either poultry or game that is put in a raised crust, and intended not to be eaten until cold, should be boned, and the liquid that is to fill up the ‘pie made from the bones. 5222 THE IMPERIAL AND PUFF-PASTE. Take three quarters of a pound of flour, and an egg; wet it with water, but be careful not to put too much water at first; mix it up rather stiff, then work it in well, with the heel of your hand, until it becomes pliable, so that it will draw in strings; then take a pound of butter, and work it together until it becomes tough; roll the paste out rather thick, put all the butter in at. once, and fold the paste quite even; then roll it out again, and fold it up in regular folds; repeat this three times, then roll it out for use; be careful to let it all be of a thickness, otherwise it will not bake upright, but fall aside in the oven; if for pates, it should be nearly a quarter of an inch; cut out with cutters, according to your own fancy; put them on a baking sheet; brush them over with a small paste brush; dip it in the yolk of an egg and a little water; be careful not to let the egg touch the sides; then take a cutter three sizes smaller than whatyou cut out the pates with, and cut them in the middle about ROYAL COOK. 228 half through; put them in a quick oven immediately; be particularly attentive to the oven, as they will not take many minutes in baking; if the oven is too quick,, cover them with paper, to keep them from being too highly coloured; when done, take off the tops, and scoop out the soft paste from the inside, and put them on white kitchen-paper, to soak the butter from them; they should not be filled many minutes before they are wanted; this kind of paste is used for all kinds of tartlets, and what is called small pastry, meat-pies made in dishes, vole vents, pates, goodeveaux, &c.; N. B. All meat-pies should be egged. ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE PUFF-PASTE, PARTICULARLY IX HOT WEATHER. Cut the butter in three equal pieces, have flour of equal weight, roll the butter in, and make as much stick to it as you can; wet the remainder with water and egg, the same as before; when well worked. 224 THE IMPERIAL AND roll the paste out, and put one third of the butter in; fold it up, dust it with flour, and roll it out; then put half the butter that is left, fold it up, and roll it out again; then put in the remainder of the butter, fold it up, and put it between two dishes, and leave it for half an hour, or until wanted; then roll it out, and fold it up; then roll it out for use. TART PASTE, COMMONLY CALLED SHORT PASTE. To one pound of flour rub in a quarter of a pound of butter, wet it with water and two eggs, work it up to a proper stiffness, and roll it out for use. N. B. There should be about two table spoonfuls of sugar to it, when it is for tarts, or any thing sweet. This is the proper paste for meat-puddings, dumplings, &c.; only remember to make it without sugar. ROYAL COOK. 225 HOT PASTE FOR RAISED PIES. To one quart of water put two ounces of butter; set it on the fire to boil; take what flour you think is requisite, break two eggs into it, and stir the butter and water with a spoon, so as to mix the egg with liquid; then work it up well; it should be worked at least fifteen minutes, and made quite stiff; then put it in a stewpan before the fire to sweat for half an hour; then raise your pie to any shape you please; it is the better way to raise your pie and finish it before baking the day before you want it, as it will stand the oven better, particularly if it is a large one; but as for small ones, or causes, they may be made and baked directly: as for garnishing, your own fancy must direct you. ALMOND PASTE FOR SECOND COURSE DISHES. Take a pound of sweet, and four ounces of bitter, almonds; blanch them, and make them as dry as you can; put them into a L 5 226 THE IMPERIAL AND mortar, and pound them well; beat up the whites of three eggs, and wet the almonds with it by a little at a time; when pounded enough, rub it through a tammy-sieve $ then get a small preserving-pan, set it over a stove (not very fierce), then put the almonds in the pan, stir in a pound of very fine sifted treble-refined sugar, or as much as will bring it to a paste consistence; take it out of the preserving-pan, and put it between two plates to sweat; when cold, make it into what shapes you think proper. There are shells of different sorts for almond paste. Make some into cups, like coffee-cups, and cream jugs, &c.; WOODCOCK PIE COLD. Pass the woodcocks off in a little butter and good stock, raise a pie, put some farce in the bottom, and a few slices of veal from the fillet, and upon that some more farce, and then the woodcocks; season them with chopped parsley, shalots, mushrooms chopped very fine, pepper, and salt, a very little 1 ROYAL COOK. 227 fine spice and Cayenne pepper; cover the woodcocks over with farce, then with sheets .of bacon; finish the pie, and put it into theoven; it will take three hours to bake; when done, have some stock of the very best sort, and about a pint of sherry to a; pie that contains twelve woodcocks, and three parts stock to one of wine; put it in •. the pie while hot; be careful not to let any of the fat spill over the sides of the pie, for • this reason; it soaks in to the woodcocks and makes them mellow, and helps the flavour. N. B. Snipes will answer the same as woodcocks, only they will take less doing, . of course. MINCE PIES. Seven pounds of currants, rubbed and’ picked very clean, and three pounds and ahalf of beef suet, chopped very fine, threepounds and a half of the lean of a sirloin of ‘ beef minced raw, veiy fine, three pounds and a half of apples, chopped very fine,, (they should be the lemon pippin), half a a 528 THE IMPERIAL AND pound of citron, cut in very small pieces, half a pound of lemon-peel, half a pound of orange-peel, cut like the citron, two pounds of fine moist sugar, one ounce of fine spice, (such as cloves, mace, nutmegs, and cinnamon, all pounded together and sifted), the rind of four lemons, and four Seville oranges; all these to be rubbed together until well mixed; then put it into a deep pan; put over it one bottle of brandy, one of white wine (of the sherry kind), the juice of the lemons and oranges that have been grated; mix the wine and brandy together in a bason, and lemon and orange juice; pour half over, and press it down tight with your hand; then add the other half, and let it remain at the top, to soak in by degrees; cover it up; it should be made six weeks before it is w r anted; the pans are sheeted with puff-paste, and covered with the same: about ten minutes will bake them. ROYAL COOK 229 SMALL MUTTON PIES. Raise as many small pies as the dish will hold; cut the fillet of a neck of mutton, and some fat; take all the skin and sinews from it, and mince it very fine with your knife, (not with the chopping knife); put about a spoonful of stock into a stewpan with the mutton, mix a little chopped shalot, mushrooms, parsley, and a very little pepper and salt; add it to the meat, and set it on the fire for a few minutes, stirring it all the while; take it off to cool; then fill the pies; they will take about half an hour baking; with the meat that is left, put as much coulis and stock as you think will fill the pies up; when they are baked, cut the tops off, and fill them with it; dish them on a napkin. N. B. All pastry should be dished on napkins. A WOODCOCK PIE. Raise a pie according to the size of the dish that it is to go in; lay a few slices of veal in the bottom then a layer of force 230 THE IMPERIAL AND meat, and then put in six woodcocks; season them with fine herbs and chopped mushrooms; put in a pound of raw truffles, pared, and cut in thick slices; cover the woodcocks over with sheets of bacon; cover the pie, and garnish according to fancy: it will take two hours and a half to bake: when done, cut the top off, pour off’ the fat, and put in some coulis. A MUTTON AND POTATOE PIE IN A RAISED CRUST. Raise a pie about three inches high, cut a neck of mutton into cutlets, butter a ? souties-pan, sprinkle it over with mixed pepper and salt, chopped mushrooms, parsley, and chopped shalots; lay the cutlets on them, and sprinkle them over; put them on a stove about two minutes, just to set them; then turn them, and put them to cool; when cold, lay the cutlets round the sides of the pie in the same manner as you would round a dish; scoop potatoes with a turnip scoop, and put them in the ROYAL COOK. 231 middle; scrape off the herbs from the souties-pan, and put them in the pie; cover it in, and garnish as fancy directs: it will take two hours’ baking in what is called a soaking oven: when done, cut the top off, and pour off the fat again, but take care none of the gravy comes out, as that is what gives it the real flavour; pour a little good coulis in, and dish it on a napkin. N. B. A neck of mutton should be boned before it is cut up. A PATE GOODEVEAU. Raise a small pie about three inches high; put force-meat round the sides; cut a sweetbread in slices, a few fat livers, and five or six truffles that have not been braised, or raw; cut them in slices, and cover the pie in; when done, pour in some good coulis, and a glass of Madeira wine. N. B. Boil the coulis and wine together before it is put in the pie. 232 THE IMPERIAL AND RISOLES. Mince any kind of white meat, such as fowl, turkey, or veal sweetbreads; put a little beshemell in a stewpan, make it hot, then put in the mince, season with pepper and salt, a drop or two of garlick vinegar, the juice of half a lemon, and a little pounded sugar; put it in a dish to cool; when quite cold, roll it up, either round or long; beat up two eggs in a bason, dip the risoles in them, and roil them in bread crumbs; they should be done twice over; have some clear lard, made quite hot; (the lard is not hot enough for frying either risoles or fish, until it stops boiling); then put in the risoles; have a sieve by the stove where you are frying, to put them on as soon as done, which will not be many minutes; pick some parsley, and dry it before the fire; put it in a proper cullender, and set the cullender in the lard; about one minute will be sufficient to crisp it: lay the risoles round the dish, and parsley in the middle. ROYAL COOK. 233 A TIMBALL OF MACCARONI AND CHICKEN. Boil the maccaroni in broth until tender, then put some beshemell and grated cheese, and a chicken cut up as for a fricassee; (a chicken that has been left from dinner the day before will do); put it to the maccaroni, and make it hot, then put it to cool; butter the mould that is intended for the timball, and put in some bread crumbs, or vermicelli; shake it about; what does not stick to the mould turn out; then sheet it with trimmings of puff-paste that has a little flour worked in it; when the maccaroni and chicken is cold, put it in the oven: one hour will bake it: the oven should not be over hot: when done, turn it out, cut the top out, and put a little beshemell, and a little in the dish round the timball. RAISED PIE, WITH A NEAT’S TONGUE. Raise a pie as nearly to the shape of a tongue as you can, lay some good force £34 THE IMPERIAL A meat (first made hot) at the bottom, cut the tongue that has been boiled into thin slices, and the root the same; lay a slice of tongue and a slice of the root round the pie, and put force-meat in the middle; cover over the tongue, &c.; with sheets of bacon; cover the pie in, and ornament it; it will take an hour or better to bake: the oven should not be very quick: when done cut the top off, pour the fat off, and put in some coulis: put a glass of Madeira in the coulis: dish it on a napkin. A TRUFFLE PIE, HOT. Raise a pie according to the size of the dish in length and in breadth, but not more than three inches deep; make a good truffle farce, and fill the pie with it; then lay in a pound of truffles that have been braised and peeled; cover the truffles with sheets of fat bacon; then cover the pie, and ornament it as you think proper; put it into rather a slow’ oven: half an hour will bake it: when done, cut the top off. ROYAL COOK. 235 and take the fat ham away; pour a glass of Madeira wine in; put the top on the pie again, and send it up to table quite hot. N. B. This is generally sent up as a remove for a second course roast. RAISED PIGEON PIE. Raise a pie, and prepare six pigeons the same as for a compote; draw the legs of six pigeons in, (in the same manner as chickens for boiling), singe them, and fill them with force-meat, and put a small rawtruffle in each pigeon; put the necks and gizzards into a stewpan, and any other giblets that are at hand, about a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a few onions, a few blades of mace, a little parsley, two or three bay leaves, half a pint of sherry, and a pint of stock; put beef steaks at the bottom of the pie, and the pigeons on the steaks; cover the pie in, and ornament it; (all raised pies should be made the day before, but not baked): it will take two hours to bake it: when done, take the top 236 THE IMPERIAL AND off, and put in six hard yolks of eggs, and fill it up with coulis. LAMB PIE, IN A DISH. Cut up a loin of lamb into chops, season them with pepper, salt, chopped shalot, parsley, and chopped mushrooms; lay them in the dish; put a little stock between each layer of chops, put hard eggs, and cover it with puff-paste; it will take one hour to bake: when done, put a little stock and coulis mixed. VENISON PASTY. Bone, and well season with pepper and salt, a neck and breast of venison; put them into a pan, with the best part of a neck of mutton sliced, and lay it on them: pour in a glass of red wine; put the coarse paste over; bake it two hours, lay the venison in a dish, pour the gravy over, and put half a pound of butter over it; lay a good puff-paste round the edge of the dish; roll out the lid, which must be a ROYAL COOK. 237 little thicker than that on the edge, and lay it on; then roll out another lid pretty thin, cut it into whatever form you please, and lay it on the other. It will keep in the pot it was baked in eight or ten days; but the crust must be kept on, that the air may not get in it. VENISON POTTED. Bone a side of venison, take off all the sinews, and cut it in square collars of what size you please; lard it with fat bacon, as big as the top of your finger, and three or four inches long: season with pepper, salt, cloves, and nutmeg; roll up, and tie close with coarse tape: put them into deep pots, with seasoning at the bottoms, fresh butter, and three or four bay leaves; put the rest of the seasoning and butter on the top, and over that beef suet, finely shred and beaten: cover up your pots with coarse paste, and bake them for four or five hours; then take them out of the oven, and let them stand a little; teke out your venison, and 238 THE IMPERIAL AND drain it from your gravy; add more butter to the fat, and set it over a slow fire, to clarify; then take it off, let it stand a little, and skim it; have pots ready for each collar; put a little seasoning, and some of your clarified butter, at the bottom: then put in your venison, fill your pot with clarified butter, and let your butter be an inch above your meat: when thoroughly cold, tie it doAvn with double paper, and lay a till on the top. It will keep several months. When you want a pot, put it for a minute into boiling water, and it will come out whole; let it stand till cold, stick bay leaves round, and a sprig at the top. FINE PATES. Slice any quantity of either turkey, house-lamb, or chicken, with an equal quantity of the fat of lamb, a loin of veal, or the inside of a sirloin of beef, parsley, and lemon-peel, shred; pound all fine in a mortar, and season with salt and white pepper; make a fine puff-paste, roll it out in thin ROYAL COOK. 239 square sheets, and put the meat in the middle; cover the pates, close them, cut the paste even, brush them over with yolks of egg s, and bake them twenty minutes in a quick oven: have ready a little white gravy; season with pepper, salt, and a shalot; thicken it with cream or butter: when done, cut the whole in the top, and pour in some gravy. PUFFS, WITH CHICKEN. Chop the breast of a fowl, some lean ham, half an anchovy, add a small quantity of parsley; lemon-peel, and shalots cut very fine, with a little Cayenne, and pounded mace; put them into a stewpan, with two spoonfuls of bpshemell; set them over a nre for five minutes; put them on a plate, and, when cold, roll out some puff-paste, then cut it into square pieces, put some of the mixture on them, double the paste, run a gigger iron round, to make them in the form of puffs; fry them in boiling lard, and serve them up with fried parsley under. 240 THE IMPERIAL AND RICH VEAL PIE. Cut a loin of veal into steaks; season with salt, nutmeg, and beaten mace; lay the meat in your dish, with sweetbreads; season it, and add the yolks of six hard eggs, a pint of oysters, and half a pint of stock; lay good puff-paste round your dish, half an inch thick, and cover it with the same; bake it an hour and a quarter in a quick oven: before you serve it, take off the lid, cut it into eight or ten pieces, and stick them round the inside of the rim of the dish; cover the meat with slices of lemon, and send it hot to table. VEAL OR LAMB PIE A HAUT GOUT. Cut the meat into small pieces, and season with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, beaten fine: make a puff-paste, lay it into the dish, then put in your meat, and strew on it some stoned raisins and currants, clean washed and picked, and some sugar; lay on force-meat balls, made “ROYAL COOK. 241 sweet; and if in the summer, some artichoke bottoms; but if in winter, scalded grapes; add to this Spanish potatoes boiled, and cut into pieces, candied citron, orange, or lemon-peel, and three or four blades of mace; put butter on the top: close up your pie, and bake it: have ready against it is done, the yolks of three eggs, mixed with a pint of wine; stir them well together over the fire one way till it is thick; take it off, put a bit of sugar, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon; raise the lid of the pie, put this hot into it, close it up again, and send it to table. CALVES’ FEET PIE. Boil the feet in three quarts of water, with three or four blades of mace, till reduced to a pint and a half; take out the feet, strain the liquor, and make a good crust; cover your dish, take the flesh from the bones, and put half into it: strew over it half a pound of currants, washed and picked, and half a pound of raisins stoned; M 242 THE IMPERIAL AND then lay on the rest of your meat; skim the liquor it was boiled in, sweeten it to your taste, and put in half a pint of white wine: pour all into the dish; put on the lid, and bake it an hour and a half. SWEETBREAD PIE. Lay puff-paste, half an inch thick, at the bottom of a deep dish, and put the forcemeat round the sides; cut three or four sweetbreads, according to the size of the pie; lay them in first, then artichoke bottoms cut into four pieces each, then cocks’ combs, truffles, and morels, some asparagus tops, and fresh mushrooms, a few yolks of eggs boiled hard, and force-meat balls: season with pepper and salt; almost fill the pie with water, cover, and bake it two hours: when you take it out of the oven, pour in some rich veal gravy, and thicken it with a little cream and flour. ROYAL COOK. 243 VEGETABLES, Ac. STEWED MUSHROOMS. The mushrooms should be peeled very thin, and put into water, with the juice of a lemon; melt a bit of butter into a stewpan, then put in the mushrooms, and a little pepper and salt; set them over the fire for about fifteen minutes; (they should do very slow); add a little beshemell, if for white, and coulis for brown. N. B. Garden mushrooms are the best. A CHARTREUSE. Sheet the mould with sheets of bacon, cut a carrot in leaves, or any flower, to ornament the bottom of the mould; then lay in a layer of spinage; scoop the carrot as long as the mould is deep, (the carrots should be boiled first, and all the other vegetables); then trim as many heads of M 2 244 THE IMPERIAL AND celery; roll out spinage the same length and thickness, then put them upright in the mould, first a carrot, and next spinage, and so on; then have some good forcemeat, and put it all round the sides and bottom of the mould, and fill up the middle with cauliflour and beshemell; put a bit of any kind of paste on the top, egg it over, and bind it to the force-meat; then put the mould into a stewpan of water, so as to come up to the middle of the mould; then put the stewpan in the oven for about an hour; when done, turn it out, and take the bacon off, and soak the fat off that runs on the dish: put a little white Italian sauce round the bottom of the dish. MUSHROOMS EITHER FOR FIRST OR SECOND COURSE. Pare the mushrooms the same as an apple; put them in the water, and squeeze a lemon in the water; then put about two ounces of butter into a stewpan that will hold a quart of mushrooms, put in the ROYAL COOK. 245 mushrooms, a little pepper and salt, and the juice of two lemons; put them over a slow fire to draw down; they discharge a great deal of liquor, and should remain on the fire until the liquor is boiled away, and becomes quite dry, but be careful not to let them stick to the bottom of the stewpan; when done, put them into sweetmeatpots, fill them three parts full, and fill the pot up to the top with clarified butter boiled quite hot. N. B. The pots will not require to be covered over; when they are wanted for use, put the mushrooms into a stewpan to warm, strain the butter from them, and put them either into brown or white sauce, according to what they are wanted for. By following this method, you may have mushrooms all the year round. TURTLE HERBS IN GLAZE. Take marjoram, of both sorts an equal quantity, half the quantity of basil, as much of parsley, of lemon, orange, and 246 THE IMPERIAL AND common thyme, the same quantity as marjoram, all picked from the stalks; to a large handful of each herb put one pound of shalots, two pottles of mushrooms chopped very fine, two pounds of lean ham, a few truffles, if to be had, as they help the flavour; put into a stewpan one pound of butter, one quart of the best stock, and then the herbs, ham, &c.; put the stewpan on a slow stove, to stew very gently for three or four hours, or until the stock is quite reduced and the herbs and ham quite tender; then rub them through a tammy; then put them into a stewpan, and one quart of glaze, made from the best stock, or the bottom of braises; put them on a quick stove, and keep stirring them while on the fire; it should be until the glaze is reduced one quarter, or until the herbs become quite thick, and begin to stick to the bottom of the stewpan; then put it into oval or round potting pots, as they are more convenient than the preserving pots for cutting out small quantities; those herbs will retain their flavour for six years, or longer. Turtle herbs done in this manner will be ROYAL COOK. 247 found very useful for mock-turtle, calf’s head hash, matelot of different kinds of fish: it takes but a small quantity to give the proper flavour to the above-mentioned uses; about a quarter of an ounce to a pint of sauce, and so on to a larger quantity. N. B. They will be found very useful to take to the East or West Indies: if they should happen to be mouldy, a little hot water will take it off; the mouldy taste will not penetrate. PORTABLE SANTE HERBS, TO TAKE TO SEA, OR FOR SUMMER USE. What is meant by sante herbs, is as follows: — shred turnips, the red part of the carrot, green onions (when in season), at other times Spanish onions, if to be had; if not, common onions, celery, picked chervil, and cabbage-lettuce; as to quantity, that must depend upon how much soup is wanted, (about a pint of herbs, when stewed down, will do for two quarts of soup sante); when the herbs are all cut, and washed 248 THE IMPERIAL AND particularly clean, (as the lettuce and chervil are very likely to be gritty, if not well washed), put them into a soup-pot or stewpan; and if asparagus is in season, add one pint of asparagus peas to the quantity of herbs that will be sufficient for two quarts of soup; put about one pint of good stock to them, and put them on a slow stove, to draw down until quite dry; then put about half a pint of good glaze to them, and let them simmer in that for a few minutes; then put them into oval or round potting pots, fill the pots three parts full with the herbs, and the next day fill them up with boiling hot glaze; each pot should hold about one pint; when wanted for use, put two quarts of water into a small souppot or stewpan; when it boils, put the sante herbs in; perhaps it may want a little salt; one small lump of sugar will be a great advantage to the soup. N. B. The herbs done in this manner will be as good in six months as they were the day they were first done; if kept in a damp place, they will be apt to get mouldy, but the mouldy taste will not penetrate; ROYAL COOK. 249 pour a little hot water over the herbs, and the mould will come off, and leave no taste behind; tavern keepers, and those who sell soups, would find a great advantage in having herbs by them for summer use. FRENCH BEANS PRESERVED. They should be gathered when full grown, but not to have any seed in them; it is immaterial what sort; the scarlet runners are as good as any for the purpose: make the brine as follows: — put water (according to the quantity of beans you intend to preserve) into a pot, and as much salt as will be the means of bearing an egg to about the middle of the water; then put it on to boil for at least three hours, but it should not boil quick, as by so doing it would waste too much; put the French beans into stone jars about three parts full; when the brine is quite cold, fill the jars within about an inch, and the remainder part with salad oil; tie a bladder over them; they will keep good the year round; M 5 250 THE IMPERIAL AND before using, soak them in warm water, and change it several times; when they are put to boil, be particular that the water boils very fast before the beans are put in, and keep boiling till they are done. N. B. There is not the smallest doubt that French beans are a very good and wholesome vegetable to take to sea on long voyages, as the salt is very easily extracted, by putting them in warm water for about two hours before using: the expense of trying them would be very trifling; the early part of September is the time they are very plentiful, and generally cheaper, or as cheap, as any other vegetable. VENISON MADE DISHES. A HAUNCH OF DOE VENISON. When on the spit, oil some butter, and butter the venison with a paste brush; lay ROYAL COOK. 251 it thick, and sprinkle it over with salt; put two sheets of white paper over it, then make paste of flour and water, roll it out rather thick, put it on the venison, and four sheets of paper on that; tie it all on very tight; put it to the fire, and baste it well, otherwise the fire will burn the paper and the twine: it will take two hours and a half: take the paper and the paste off’, baste it with butter, flour it, and sprinkle it with salt; make the dish very hot; put the venison on the dish, and put some good gravy to it. N. B. All roasted venison is dressed the same wav. A haunch of buck venison will take four hours. Be very careful that the venison has no colour from the fire; the paler the fat is, the better the venison is cooked. A neck of doe venison will take an hour; a ditto of buck will take an hour and a half, or two hours. Venison should be rather under than over done. 252 THE IMPERIAL AND A NECK OF VENISON STEWED. Lay the bottom of a small braising-pan with sheets of fat bacon; trim a neck of venison, and lay it on the bacon; put a few onions, three heads of celery, a little parsley, a few blades of mace, and a quart of stock; cover the venison with bacon, and then with white paper; cover the braising-pan down close, and put it on a slow stove; let it simmer for two hours, or till the bones will pull out; take the venison up, strain and skim the braise, and reduce it to a glaze; put haricot roots and coulis to it: put the venison on the dish, and cover it over with roots. N. B. A breast and shoulder are done the same way, only bone the shoulder. THE UMBLES OF DEER. Take a deer’s kidney, with the fat of the heart; season them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; fry, and then stew them in good gravy till tender; squeeze in a little HOYAL COOK. 253 lemon-juice, stuff the skirts with the forcemeat made with the fat of the venison, fat bacon, grated bread, pepper, mace, sage, and onion, chopped very small: mix it with the yolk of an egg; and when the skirts are stuffed, tie them on the spit to roast, but first strew over them thyme and lemon-peel: when done, lay the skirts in the middle of the dish, and the fricassee round them. EGG MADE DISHES. AN OMELET. An omelet is made as follows: — break eight eggs (leave out four whites) into a bason; put a little chopped parsley, thyme, shalot, pepper, and salt; beat them all together for five or six minutes; then put about a quarter of a pint of good cream, and break in about two ounces of cold butter; put butter into an omelet-pan; 254 THE IMPERIAL AND when melted, put in the omelet, and keep stirring it about until it begins to set; then gather it up together with a knife, or a very small slice, made for that purpose; if the dish is oval, shape the omelet oval; if round, shape the omelet round; turn it out on a plate, then put it on a dish, and a little sauce-tourney round the edge of it; if for meagre, put no sauce; a few oysters chopped and put in the omelet (to make a change) eat very well; as also chopped ham, or kidney of veal, or any other thing your fancy leads to. N. B. The slice will be found better than a knife. AN OMELET A LA BOURGEOISE. Break eight eggs into a bason; chop some parsley, green onions, or shives, pepper, and salt; put it in the eggs, beat it up well about three minutes, and break in two ounces of butter into pieces; put a little butter into a pan; when melted, put your omelet in the pan; when done, turn it over on each side with a knife; shape it ROYAL COOK. 255 according to your dish, and turn it out, upside-down. EGGS FRIED IN PASTE. Boil six eggs for three minutes, put them into cold water, take off the shells, (but do not break the whites), wrap the eggs up in the trimmings of puff-paste, brush them over with egg, and sprinkle a few bread crumbs over them; have lard or clarified butter in a stewpan, a sufficient quantity for the eggs to swim when they are put in; when the lard is hot, put the eggs in, and fry them of a nice gold colour; when done, lay them on a napkin. EGGS, WITH ONIONS AND MUSHROOMS. When the eggs are boiled hard, take out the yolks entire, and cut the whites in slips, with some onions and mushrooms; fry the onions and mushrooms, throw in the whites, and turn them about a little; pour off the fat, if there be any; flour the 256 THE IMPERIAL AND % onions, Ac. and put to them a little of the gravy; boil them up, then put in the yolks, and add a little pepper and salt: let the whole simmer for about a minute, and serve it up. MISCELLANEOUS DISHES. TO MAKE ESSENCE OF HAM. Take three or six pounds of good ham; take off all the skin and fat, and cut the lean into slices about an inch thick; lay them in the bottom of a stewpan, with slices of carrots, parsnips, three or six onions cut in slices; cover it down very close, and set it over a stove, or on a very gentle fire; let them stew till they stick to the pan, (take care it does not burn), then pour on some strong veal gravy by degrees, some fresh mushrooms cut in pieces, if to be had; if not, mushroom-powder, some truffles and morels, some cloves, some basil, parsley, a ROYAL COOK. 257 crust of bread, and a leek; cover it down close, and let it simmer till it is of a good thickness and flavour. PORTABLE SOUP. This soup (which is particularly calculated for the use and convenience of travellers, from its not receiving any injury by time) must be made in the following manner: — cut into small pieces three large legs of veal, one of beef, and the lean part of ham; put a quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a large cauldron, then lay in the meat and bones, with four ounces of anchovies, and two ounces of mace; cut off the green of five or six heads of celery, wash the heads quite clean, cut them small, put them in, with three large carrots cut thin, cover the cauldron quite close, and set it over a moderate fire; when you find the gravy begins to draw, keep taking it up till you have got it all out; then put water in to cover the meat; set it on the fire again, and let it boil gently for four 258 THE IMPERIAL AND hours; then strain it through a hair-sieve into a clean pan, till it is reduced to one part out of three; strain the gravy you draw from the meat into the pan, and let it boil gently till you find it of a glutinous consistence, observing to keep skimming off the fat clean, as it rises: you must take particular care, when it is nearly done enough, that it does not burn: season it to your taste with Cayenne pepper, and pour it on flat earthen dishes a quarter of an inch thick; let it stand till the next day, and then cut it out by round tins a little larger than a crown piece: lay the cake in dishes, and set them in the sun to dry; to facilitate which, turn them often: when the cakes are dry, put them into a tin box, with a piece of clean white paper between each, and keep them in a dry place; if made in frosty weather, it will be sooner formed into its proper solidity. — This soup is not only particularly useful to travellers, but is also exceedingly convenient to be kept in private families; for by putting one oi the cakes into a saucepan, with about a pint of water and a little salt, a bason of ROYAL COOK. 259 good broth may be had in a few minutes. Another convenience attending this soup, is, that by boiling a large quantity of water with one of the cakes, it will make an excellent gravy for roast turkies or fowls. GLAZE FOR LAUDING, &c.; Let the stock that is intended for this use be as clean as possible, and of a pale colour; (if the stock is not clear, it should be cleared with eggs, and run through a jelly-bag); boil it over the fire until it hangs to the spoon; when done, put it into a glaze-kettle; (the glaze-kettle is made similar to a milk-kettle, and of the best block-tin): when the glaze is wanted for use, put the kettle into a stewpan of water, by the side of a stove. TURTLE HERBS, DRIED. Take basil, pot marjoram, sweet marjoram, orange-thyme, lemon-thyme, and common-thyme, parsley four times the 260 THE IMPERIAL AND quantity of the other herbs; put them to dry gradually, (so as to take four or five days to dry); when quite dry, rub them, with the hand, through a hair-sieve, then put them in a cannister or a bottle, and keep them in a dry place: they will be found very useful for seasoning force-meat, and many other purposes, and not the smallest , expense: they will keep good for years.. TO MAKE BROWNING FOR ALL SAUCES AND GRAVIES. Beat small four ounces of treble-refined sugar, and put it into a braising-pan, with an ounce of butter; put it on a clear fire, and mix it well together; when it begins to be frothy, put it higher over the fire; when the sugar and butter are of a deep brown, pour in a little red wine, and stir it well together; then add more wine, about a pint in all, and keep stirring it all the time; put in half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, six cloves, shalots, two or three blades of mace, three spoonfuls of catsup. ROYAL COOK. 261 a little salt, and the rliind of a lemon; boil them slowly about ten minutes, and then pour it into a bason: when it is cold, skim it very clean, and bottle it up together. N. B. The wine may be omitted. FONDUES. Grate half a pound of Parmesan cheese; put a bit of butter into a stewpan; when melted, add a few spoonfuls of cream; put the cheese in while on the fire, and keep stirring it until melted; then take it off the fire, and put in six yolks of eggs, one at a time, stirring it all the while; put in about two spoonfuls of mustard, and a little pepper and salt; beat it up until it becomes like a thick cream, then beat up well the white of three eggs, and put them to it; put it into a case, if for one; or in small cases, folded up for that purpose: ten minutes will bake them. 262 THE IMPERIAL AND SOUR CROUT. When the large white cabbages are full grown, cut all the green leaves from them; slice the white part in thin slices, cut very fine; sprinkle it over with salt, put a cabbage into a tub for that purpose; put in a layer of cabbage, then a few juniper berries, or carraway seeds, and then cabbage, and so on until the tub is quite full: it must be pounded down with a wooden pestle until the juice of the cabbage comes on the top; (the size of the tub depends upon the quantity wanted): then put on a clean cloth, ii clean board over that, and put some heavy weights on them, to keep them down close; for the heavier the weight is, the more it will press the liquor from the cabbage; as the liquor rises, pour it off; it should be done at least six weeks or two months before using; when any is wanted for use, wash it in warm water, and pick all the juniper berries from the cabbage. The best way of dressing it is as follows: — put half a pint of good stock, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a piece of pickled ROYAL COOK. 26.3 pork on the top, or a fillet of beef, larded and glazed; put it on a slow stove, to stew at least five hours; put the cabbage on the dish, and fry pork sausages and put them round the dish: it may be used for many other things; namely, ox and sheep rumps, roulard of veal and mutton, &cc.; SAUSAGES. The trimmings from the hams, and part of the griskin, fat and lean, an equal quantity should first be cut very fine with a knife, (be careful to take all the sinews out); then chop it very fine with a chopping knife; season it, when done chopping, with pepper and salt, and a little fine spice; put a little sage, chopped very fine, and mix it well after seasoning; then put it either in skins, or a pot; if in a pot, press it down very hard, and put a little pepper and salt on the top: a pot is the handiest for family use, as it will keep longer: when wanted, roll them up, and fry them in clarified butter. 1 264 THE IMPERIAL ANB SORREL FOR WINTER USE. The sorrel should be picked so as to be very fresh from the stalks, and washed in several waters, as it is very apt to be gritty; chop it very fine, and squeeze the water from it; then put a bit of butter into a stewpan, a slice of lean ham, and one large onion chopped very fine, about two table spoonfuls of good stock, and then the sorrel; put the stewpan on a stove to simmer till it becomes quite dry; then put it into a deep sweat-meat pot, and cover it over with hot clarified butter. A GALENTINE. Bone a breast of veal, and beat it for five minutes with the flat part of a heavy chopper, to make it roll up the better; then spread it on a table, and brush the inside with egg; it will take two eggs; then lay a piece of lean ham, cut in long square pieces, the length of the cross-way of the breast of veal, one piece of omelet of ROYAL COOK. 265 yolks of eggs, one white of egg, then a thick row of chopped parsley, lean ham, and omelet, &cc; .; when well covered, put egg over it, and sprinkle it well with chopped mushrooms, truffles, shalot, thyme, parsley, pepper, salt, and fine spice; then roll it up very tight, and roll the collar up in a cloth, and put it into a brown braise; set it on a stove to boil very slow for six hours, or until very tender; then take it up, and put it on a pewter dish, with another of the same size over it, and a heavy weight on the top dish to press it flat; it should be done two days before it is wanted; then slice it out for supper: it is generally used for ball-suppers: when dished up, put chopped aspic in the middle, and some round the galentine. N. B. A breast of mutton must be dressed the same way. ASPIC OF BRAWN. Put a little aspic in the mould, so as to cover the bottom: when cold, ornament it N 2 66 THE IMPERIAL AND either with flowers or different coloured omelets; then put a little more aspic, (but be very careful how you put it in, for, if not done with care, you will disturb the work); when cold, put a little more; then put in the brawn, cut in neat pieces, and fill up the mould with aspic: when cold, turn it out; (dip the mould in milk warm water): garnish with sliced lemon. CRAYFISH PUDDING. Boil a hundred of crayfish, (put a little salt and vinegar in the water), and pick the flesh from the tails and claws; put them into a mortar, with a quarter of a pound of butter, twelve anchovies, without washing, then the spawn of a lobster; let it be well pounded, and rubbed through a tammy sieve; then put it into a bason, and break in twelve eggs, only one at a time, and mix that one with the crayfish before you put in another, and so on, till all the eggs are broken in; then put in the crumb of two French rolls that have been soaked 6 ROYAL COOK. 267 in cream; beat them all well together; butter the mould with butter that has been clarified and is three parts cold; nut the butter on the mould with a paste-brush; put the crayfish into the mould, and the mould into a stewpan of boiling water, (the water should come half way up the mould); set the stewpan on a stove to boil slowly; put the cover on, and some lighted charcoal on the cover; it will take an hour to finish it; turn it out on the dish, and put red Italian sauce round the edge of the dish: garnish with paste. N. B. The sauce should be white, and made red with the spawn of a lobster; pound it, and rub it through a tammysieve; squeeze in a little lemon-juice. A GRENADE. Sheet a mould (that will match the chartreuse) with layers of bacon; put forcemeat round the sides, and at the bottom; fill it with any kind of poultry that has been left from last dinner; put the mould n 2 ROYAL COOK 268 into a stewpan of water, then put it in the oven for an hour; turn it out, and put coulis round the sides of the dish. N. B. Put paste on the top, before it is in the oven, the same as the chartreuse. THE END. INDEX [Omitted]

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