Individual oysters wrapped in bacon and baked, served on a fried bread sippet. An alternative to ‘Devils on Horseback‘ (qv). Earlier versions were not definitively oyster-centred. As recently as 1963 McDougall’s Cookery Book (OED) was using chicken-livers. There is a mention of the dish in Charles Dickens’ ‘Household Words‘ magazine of 1882 where it consists of an oyster, or minced oyster or liver or other forcemeat wrapped in bacon and deep-fried with a suggestion that it is of German origin. Indeed, although often seen as English and sometimes referred to as ‘Whitstable Angels’, there is evidence that this dish originated as ‘ange sur cheval‘ with Urbain Dubois, chief cook to William I of Prussia around 1866. The dish does not occur in any of the cookbooks edited by Mrs.B, though it may have been added to versions printed after her death. |
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